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Drawing Board / Re: Portable mic preamp (ENG)
« Last post by ricothetroll on Today at 03:16:32 AM »
I just realised I forgot the NOT when writing that sentence :
"So, that could mean there's no point NOT using the 2181 as an additional gain stage, isn't it ?"
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Microphones / Re: Official C12 Clone - Build and Support Thread
« Last post by tonycamp on Today at 02:59:04 AM »
Quote from: sr1200 on Today at 02:55:39 AM
Did you "break in" the mesh before you applied the sealant to it?  Im trying to find that go2 glue mentioned by hellfire above, noone in my neck of the woods seems to carry it though.  Gonna try home depot tomorrow.  Most of my issue was taken care of just by loosening up the mesh manually... id only want to further damp it for things like high spl since you can almost kinda hear it still but its so feint on loud vocals it really doesn't bother me anymore.

I did break in the mesh, i gave it a few real good squeezes, and worked the crackling out, I'm worried about the ring on overheads, cause i play loud as f**k!lol!, thats about it though. But again, the mic sounds really great!
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Filters/Equalizers / Re: SSL 4000 G Series EQ PCB
« Last post by Majestic12 on Today at 02:56:33 AM »
The front pbc consists of two seperate boards that are sandwidched together with a few standoffs. I just haven't included the second pcb in the drawing.

I'm quite sure I can make the design ready within two months or so.
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Microphones / Re: Official C12 Clone - Build and Support Thread
« Last post by sr1200 on Today at 02:55:39 AM »
Did you "break in" the mesh before you applied the sealant to it?  Im trying to find that go2 glue mentioned by hellfire above, noone in my neck of the woods seems to carry it though.  Gonna try home depot tomorrow.  Most of my issue was taken care of just by loosening up the mesh manually... id only want to further damp it for things like high spl since you can almost kinda hear it still but its so feint on loud vocals it really doesn't bother me anymore.
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Microphones / Re: Cinemag Trafo Repurp
« Last post by sr1200 on Today at 02:52:31 AM »
Wired it up. All point to point.  The cinemag transformer is wired backwards (color wise) from the Jensen transformer in the schematic.  After I realized that the Disgustolink works pretty damn good as a DI.  I haven't tried it out yet as a re-amp, (its 3 am and everyone is sleeping lol)  but ill definitely give it a go tomorrow.  Everything seems to be working properly though.  Pads work.  Not really sure what the "attenuation" does on the DI side of things, does it attenuate the i/o pad?  if so i might not have that wired correctly.
-15 db Pad works great.
:) was a fun little trafo repurpose thanks a lot for the idea and schematic!!!
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Microphones / Re: Official C12 Clone - Build and Support Thread
« Last post by tonycamp on Today at 02:49:27 AM »
Hi Fella's,

I have an interesting clip for you guys, my C12 head basket seems to have a pretty nasty bell resonance to it, so i did what i recommended, DUCT SEAL!! :o  Listen to the clip, and judge for yourself, I could imagine if you were to use the C12 head basket untreated, in a high SPL situation, the ring could be quite problematic, the duct seal helps a lot, but i'm not sure if it's enough??

https://soundcloud.com/tonycamp/c12-duct-seal

let me know what y'all think, and i hope this helps

thanx
T

Edit; I mean this as no slight to chungs head basket, it's a really nice piece!, and for all i know, the resonant thing is part of the C12 sound(i've never used a real one), not to mention, the mic sounds friggin beauty gotta love it!!, seriously stellar!
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Microphones / Re: Official C12 Clone - Build and Support Thread
« Last post by tonycamp on Today at 02:39:08 AM »
Quote from: baadc0de on Today at 01:37:02 AM
Quote from: Matador on May 22, 2013, 08:59:19 PM
Can we quantify exactly what "low output" means?  How many DBFS is it lower than what you are expecting?

Another build I just did seems to be ~ 20dB louder. I'll test at the studio soon to be extra sure. From my measurements, the voltages seem to be OK and since tube swaps are not working, I guess it's either the capsule or transformer. I can probably inject signal on both and see if the gain drop still occurs. If it does, it should be the transformer, if not, the capsule. Let me know if you guys have any other suggestions.

Double check your bridge on the back plates??
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Preamplifiers / Re: [BUILD] classicapi.com *VP2X, 500 Series Mic Pre Kit* Official Support Thread
« Last post by Bassphil on Today at 02:21:14 AM »
Okay, I've read every post on this great forum and haven't found a definitive answer that will let me sleep better tonight.

I just finished my first build of the VP26. Like a few people here in the thread, I also noticed the weird issue of the moving numbers on my Fluke multimeter when I got to the final step of checking the ohms of the op-amp sockets.

I have a nice Fluke 179, but I might very well be using it incorrectly! When I set it to ohms and touch the different sockets of the op-amp, the numbers are moving up. Is that normal? My Fluke is set to auto range.

I also noticed that the readings change depending on which lead of the Fluke touches which op-amp socket. For instance, if I touch the red lead to the o and the black lead to C, I get a reading of 1.6M that continues climbing from there. If I switch that around, I get a reading of -1.35M.

I want to make sure that, as of this point, everything seems to be normal. Here are my readings:

-V & +V = starts at 200K and climbs
-V & C = starts at 1.06M and climbs
+V & C = starts at 168K and climbs
C & O = starts at 1.6M and climbs if the red lead from the Fluke is on the O (like I mentioned)
+V & O = 480K and climbs
-V & O = 1.2M and climbs

I'm definitely not an electrical engineer, but I'm good at following orders. I was pretty thorough in checking the solder joints, and I organized all of the resistors with my multimeter, so those are definitely working and should be sorted correctly. I can't imagine I'd have any problems, though if there's one thing I've learned from reading this thread is that people with more knowledge than me can misplace a resistor...  ;)

Anyway, before I take it to the next step, I just wanted to get a confirmation that the moving numbers thing when I was performing the first check was normal, and that the numbers I posted look to be okay.

Thanks!

-Phil
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Dynamic Processors / Re: TG1 - advice from any one who has built it...
« Last post by jplebre on Today at 02:05:38 AM »
OK new developments on my issue - more info on what the problem actually is:
It seems all is fine but the compressor is compressing signals at -2dBu. If I actually feed a sine wave to a signal under -25dBFS (on my sound card, callibrated for -20dBfs) there's no loss

Now, before I thinker with anything, could someone please confirm if this is this normal?
If it's indeed an issue I'm thinking it's probably a calibration issue: either with AOT 3/4, 5/6 (it does make a difference in the overal level if I'm in limit or compression) or unity gain with AOT1,2?

I'm more inclined to think AOT3/4 5/6 because When switching to THD, all is good (no loss no matter what level) so I'm guessing it's either around VT9 (make up stage on signal path) or something related with the sidechain.

Also, if someone could confirm this based on experience with chandler/original/festers:
- when using Hold, the top of the potentiometer changes voltage as well. SHould it remain fix at 10v and only the wiper change voltage?
- Hold control not doing much. (note: i don't have the meters working yet, so I can't actually see. But by hear, only the last 3 steps really do a difference).
- Original attack time speed quite slow (both on Lim/Comp mode?)

Compression is sweet. If you are holding off building this guy don't as it's pretty "special"

If you guys could help confirm the above would be a great help on the troubleshoot process :)

Thanks
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Dynamic Processors / Re: TG1 - advice from any one who has built it...
« Last post by jplebre on Today at 01:52:15 AM »
Quote from: late on May 22, 2013, 06:57:53 PM
Anyone have used Hairball 8020 meter?

To adjust the metar, use 500R-1k 10turn pot in parallel. But how?

You needed to have another pot in paralell so you could compensate the amperage, as well as some place to put the meter in series to see if you are actually going for 1mA

Found post here: http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=37400.msg653727#msg653727

Edit2: haven't done it yet. I'm busy for the next few weeks so I'm hoping week after next one I get to do this.
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