Supergreen Thread

[josh]

I just ordered almost all the parts for this project and I have some questions if anyone knows.

-F1 through F6 are listed on the BOM as "Ferrite Bead".  Ferrite Bead what?  Need more information to order these.

-SW1 through SW3 are Omron G6H-2 relays.  Mouser lists 13 matches for this http://www.mouser.com/search/refine.aspx?Ntt=omron+g6h-2
which one is correct?  Coil Voltage, current, type, power consumption, etc...

-What wattage of Zener Diodes should we use?  I bought both 0.5 and 1 watt anyway.

-Why are the silver mica caps such high voltage.  I bought 300V caps, but the 500 seemed to be the most common.

Also, http://www.akustische-kunst.org/audio/supergreen/supergreen_instructions.pdf does not list any of the following:
-gain switch
-phase, pad, or phantom power toggle switches
-power transformer

Anyone have this info?

[okgb]

The PCB is 9 5/8 x 3 "  or
                  245 x 75 cm ?

Kasper had made a couple of boms for Mouser & Digikey
but i don't have anywhere to host them but i can email them if anybody need them  , host ??

 Gain switch [ shorting i think  ]  any 12 pole although there was
disscussion and a calulator offered for making 24 position values ,
for switching relays thats simple

[  Credit where due , Sammy G , the swiss offered up his calculator ,
for gain  , that's not Power , so don't think about taking over any countries
with your Audio , but it may no be available any more , search the threads

The power transformer depends on what d.c. volts you want and if the
opamps selected can handle it  , but to get phantom might need something
in the 22-0-22 range guessing at .2 to .3 amp
 We are on our own for a psu , but Fabio , Keith ssl , and Green pre
have versions that will work  .

 For other questions some looking at the schematic is required
[ i'm in the same boat  ]

regards Greg

[josh]

email me the bom and I will host it forever.
 
 :thumb:

no problem.  Matter of fact, if anyone has files relavant to this board I will host them for you.  be reasonable though, just because there's a thread about limp wammy bars doesnt mean I want to put up any pron
 :wink:
jk

[Rossi]

How about the guy who made the Supergreen project, was so long ago? or where did him get the parts?

He got them from lobtron.de in Germany.

Concerning the 2N4410 as replacement, this is just a more or less standard transistor and you don't need the extra current in a mic pre. Look for low noise transistors instead.

Olaf

I recently tried to obtain 2SC3329 transistors from Lobron (for a different project). I got pretty much everything else I ordered, but not the 2SC3329. For a mic input stage you need low Rbb transistors. The 2SC3329 is the best (Rbb = 2 ohms). Among the alternatives I tried, the 2SC2546 was about the best I could find. The dataheet doesn't specify a Rbb value, but it must be very low. It's PNP complementary 2SA1084 is used in many commercial designs. The 2N4401 is pretty okay, too, and very cheap.

[Samuel Groner]

I second the 2N4401 if you can't get your hands on some Japanese parts.

I recently tried to obtain 2SC3329 transistors from Lobron (for a different project). I got pretty much everything else I ordered, but not the 2SC3329.

So he just didn't stock them (like some other Toshiba parts I ordered from him) or he can't get them at all?

Samuel

[Ilya]

-F1 through F6 are listed on the BOM as "Ferrite Bead".  Ferrite Bead what?  Need more information to order these.

I'd second this question. It's not clear for me what's the exact value of these beads.

Kasper had made a couple of boms for Mouser & Digikey
 but i don't have anywhere to host them but i can email them if anybody need them , host ??

I can host that.
We also have a gmail forum mailbox as an archive. Search for more info.

[Rossi]

I second the 2N4401 if you can't get your hands on some Japanese parts.

I recently tried to obtain 2SC3329 transistors from Lobron (for a different project). I got pretty much everything else I ordered, but not the 2SC3329.

So he just didn't stock them (like some other Toshiba parts I ordered from him) or he can't get them at all?

Samuel

I don't know yet. I'm still waiting for another reply. Meanwhile I sent an email to Reichelt, asking about the 2SC3329 and they told me that it isn't available anymore. Reichelt's reply was very quick, just minutes after I hit the send button. Could be computer generated, I don't know.

I hope the 2SC3329 has not been discontinued for some reason. The 2SC2546 is almost as good, though. Out of curiosity I tried the 2SC3328 and found it to be very low noise, too. It is lower beta than the 2SC3329 and looks different, but there may be a close relationship between those two Toshiba parts.

The 2N4401 is very good, but still a little higher noise than the 2SC2546 or the 2SC3329. But that's only when you work with ribbons and other low ouput mics. With condensers you probably won't hear a difference in noise.

[kazper]

another sub for the 2SC3329 is the 2SC2003 at least according to a couple suppliers.

[josh]

Howdy all,

Here is the link to Greg's BOM he was kind enough to share with all of us.
 :thumb:

thanks bro.
Excel Format
PDF Format

[okgb]

I can't take credit for the Boms , it was another kind member ,
Making two different ones none the less , inpired by Greg S's fine work


the Antiguru dug up this place for the Xisters , may be free post
to the U.S if someone wants to get them and Sell us  [ & me  ] a couple

http://www.acme-sales.net/portal.php?p_id=2SC3329

i only need the 4 ,

[josh]

http://www.tawelectronics.com/stores.htm

has those 10mF MKP4 37.5 WIMA's for quite a bit cheaper than Digikey.  I bought 8 of them for my 4 board sets and with shipping it came to less than 45 bucks.

[lagoausente]

I used 2SC2240s. Way easier to get and a low noise type, too. This one has been suggested in different places for the obsolete original transistor.

  What about this one, and compared with the other ones you have checked?  
  There are very diferent opinions about this component. Maybe better get the original one from acme-sales?

[lookn4tone]

As an FYI...

Colin at AML http://www.audiomaintenance.com/acatalog/radial_capacitors.html has Dubilier electrolytic caps for these boards.  To my knowledge, these are the same caps that were used by Amek for the 9098i consoles.  They sound great in my Tac Matchless.  I just ordered a bunch for my supergreen cards.  Price is reasonable, even with shipping to the US.

Just a thought.

Steve

[josh]

The BOM for the Supergreen from OlafMatts site calls for R231-R242 of various values.  The pcb itself does not have these.

Also, the pcb has R102-R109 and the BOM does not.  What's the deal with this?

[Harpo]

from Olaf's schematic at http://www.akustische-kunst.org/audio/supergreen/supergreen_schematic.pdf
 R231-R242 are soldered directly to the gain setting rotary switch
(mine work this way and they work fine with these values).
Resistors R102-R109 are 75 ohm current limiting resistors.

[josh]

awesome.  My schematic reading skills are poor (not that I was even looking at it  :wink:).  Would you guys mind too terribly much if I marked up that schematic with a handful of things I don't get yet, and let me know what's what?


Last question.  The rotary switches resistors are "piggy-backed", correct.  R242 gets soldered onto lug 1 & 2, and R241 goes on 2 & 3, and so on and so forth.

[Harpo]

The rotary switches resistors are "piggy-backed", correct.  R242 gets soldered onto lug 1 & 2, and R241 goes on 2 & 3, and so on and so forth.

Right. Don't forget the link between slider and lug 1, otherwise with a bbm (break before make) rotary gain would rise to max. between switching.
R231 only has one leg on lug 12, the other end goes to pcb.

[antiguru]

I'm still confused about the relays, what values should we be using?


Thanks!

[josh]

I think they're hiding some stuff from us  :wink:  
I don't have it in front of me but doesn't Greg list a specific part number on the BOM I put up?

Also, I should have asked before I soldered up the 3 switches I had in my "stock" closet, but the schematic shows the resistor from 1-12 showing left to right I hope.  :?
If not, how do you know by looking at it, because left to right seems like it would be default?

[Harpo]

, but the schematic shows the resistor from 1-12 showing left to right I hope.  :?
If not, how do you know by looking at it, because left to right seems like it would be default?

From your first post in this thread you already provided a link to Olaf's site. There is also a link to the original version at http://users.pandora.be/Rogy/Amek%20System%209098/ showing the related 6 db steps for each gain setting resistor.