SB4000 Support Thread

[skot_e]

J19 - ignore.  It's for supplying power to external CnB board.

J18 - look again, it's there:)  It's the ribbon cable connector.

So it is - my mistake. no issues there (I just cant read).

Can you tell me more about the cnb. Obviously there are the traces to cut on the pcb also. I am just curious i guess.

Not that i am ready, but is there calibration process document in the works?
Also the assembly document has non existent links on page 4 for the enclosure. only has 'www.' on the version i downloaded to look at (unless it has since been updated).

skot_e

[ruckus328]

So it is - my mistake. no issues there (I just cant read).

Haha, no worries

Can you tell me more about the cnb. Obviously there are the traces to cut on the pcb also. I am just curious i guess.

The CnB provisions are for using an external CnB board, however it has not been tested, but in theory it should work fine.  DO NOT cut those traces unless you're hooking up an external CnB board though, otherwise your unit will not work.

Not that i am ready, but is there calibration process document in the works?

I'll post the quick and dirty instructions here the next day or 2.  I've fallen way behind with things due to my surgery.  If anybody gets to that point, let me know and I'll walk you through it, it's easy.

Also the assembly document has non existent links on page 4 for the enclosure. only has 'www.' on the version i downloaded to look at (unless it has since been updated).

Again, will get it updated soon.  They're just dimensions on where I mounted my boards.  No need to even follow what I did though, you can mount them whatever looks good.

[skot_e]

DO NOT cut those traces unless you're hooking up an external CnB board though, otherwise your unit will not work.

But it says "c'mon do it" lol. Oh for the temptation...

My boards are stuffed, and I have moved on to the design of front panel so I can finish off the control board. This leads me to ask the following:

1. The release time for position 6 is marked as 'A' - what does that mean exactly?
2. I believe after reading some info in other threads that the HPF T1 & T2 position refers to tilt . I was unable to determine what it actually does though. Can you explain?

[funkmuffin]

1. The release time for position 6 is marked as 'A' - what does that mean exactly?
2. I believe after reading some info in other threads that the HPF T1 & T2 position refers to tilt . I was unable to determine what it actually does though. Can you explain?

I'm pretty sure that the A on the release setting means "Auto", not sure about Tilt though?

[Randyman...]

2. I believe after reading some info in other threads that the HPF T1 & T2 position refers to tilt . I was unable to determine what it actually does though. Can you explain?

not sure about Tilt though?

IIRC "Tilt" is a sidechain filter that cuts lows and boosts highs (generally around 700Hz-1KHz turnover point).  Still lets the lows into the detector, but attenuates them opposed to high-passing them and makes the compression more respondent to higher frequencies...

PS - What's involved in adding a C&B parallel mix blend knob to this build?

 

[skot_e]

From what I can gather cnb seems a pretty straight forward fit to the board. Add the 3 pin jumper and cut the traces. I'm sure Mike can correct if i am wrong.

Main issue appears to be real estate for placing the knob on the front panel due to limited space.

Interesting explanation for tilt, I sort of get it though I feel I need to actually hear it. So the 2 settings would be 700Hz and 1kHz? (roughly) or is that 700 - 1k for 1 setting and something different for the other?

As for the "Auto", what does this do?

Thanks Guys

[Randyman...]

700Hz - 1KHz was just the general turnover (or center) frequency for most "Tilts" I've seen.  Gently cut below and boost above to make a "tilt" response opposed to a "Flat" response.  Some consoles have a Tilt on each input (these generally "tilt" either way).

In a compressor, this simply affects the sidechain audio and changes the power distribution across octaves to allow harder compression w/o as much low frequency pumping/grabbing.  Not a whole lot different from a sidechain HPF, it's just a gentle tilt across the entire spectrum to give the mids and highs more power to trigger the compression, and roll off some lows to prevent them from driving the compression too hard.

I'd assume Tilt 1/2 on the SB4000 are just different amounts of "tilt" around a common turnover point.  Ruckus will need to expand on that 

[ruckus328]

From what I can gather cnb seems a pretty straight forward fit to the board. Add the 3 pin jumper and cut the traces. I'm sure Mike can correct if i am wrong.

You also need to actually wire in the audio from the CnB board.  There's solder pads on the main board for this.  Lukas's thread regarding how to implement CnB with a GSSL would also apply here.  The labels are consistant with his (ie LW, RW, etc.)

Main issue appears to be real estate for placing the knob on the front panel due to limited space.

Aha.  You noticed that too 

tilt

T1, T2 - Tilt filters.  High Pass/High shelf on detectors - in other words they undercompress the lows and overcompress the highs.  Really nice on drums in particular.  Search the forum for Super Side Chain (SSC), that's all it is, nothing new.

As for the "Auto", what does this do?

Just an auto release.  Same as original SSL console.

[everfly]

Hey guys,

The BOM lists 2 different transformers from what I can see. First project so I want to be sure to get things right the first go around.

The Digikey 237-1327-ND has a manufacturing part number of VPT36-690. This is different than the Digikey 237-1334-ND which has a manufacturing part number VPT36-1390. The difference is like 10 bucks. Which one am I supposed to get or does it matter?

Also, best soldering iron/solder, and best wires for connections? Again first real project and want to get it right!

Thanks in advance for any help!

Tom

[Ptownkid]

I'm sure Mike will chime in to confirm this, but I am pretty sure that the less expensive 25VA torroid is plenty.

[ruckus328]

25VA is fine, sorry for the typo - I'll fix the BOM.

[Randyman...]

Hey Mike,

Just to confirm before ordering - the VPT36-690 is what we want (25VA / 31.5mm tall)?  The 25VA is sufficient?

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Triad-Magnetics/VPT36-690/?qs=wkKrz7WmEgMur335Y%252benyA%3d%3d

Also - for ptown - Is the chassis punched for a small type IEC w/o a fuse, or the larger type with the built in fuse like these used in the Hairball 1176's:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=719W-00/02virtualkey56210000virtualkey562-719W-00/02

Thanks for any clarification  

[ruckus328]

Yes, 25VA is correct.  Anything bigger than a 30VA will be difficult to fit in a 1U and not necessary anyways, 25VA-30VA is sufficient to power the unit.

Unit must use a fused IEC connector, as should pretty much any project.

No fuse = very bad.

[Randyman...]

Ordering now!

Even this noob knows not to run w/o a fuse    I just wasn't sure if it's safe to assume that all DIY chassis are punched for the larger fused IEC's, or if some of the 1RU chassis might have an internal fuse instead (like the SCA's).  I prefer the fused IEC inlets for simplicity and safety regardless.

 

[envelope]

Hi, Does anyone have a source or have some spares for K1-K8, in North America.

Mouser and Digikey are out until mid April looks like.

http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Tyco-Electronics/V23079A1003B301/?qs=2waj4XMZKzfMazvFeI4rEQ%3d%3d

If anyone has come up a with and installed substitute part, what were the noted resistor value changes needing to be made (from BOM note)?

thank you

[Neil]

How about here?

http://www.onlinecomponents.com/buy/AMP-TYCO/1-1393788-1/

[envelope]

 thank you for the tip. I'll try it out.

[Ptownkid]

http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/technologies/electromechanical/relays/signal-relays/Pages/4954087-TX2-12V.aspx
http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic-Electric-Works/TX2-12V/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs3UE%252bXNiFaVCLW1ZA8WQBLChLPUxZ%2fB18%3d

[ruckus328]

Nothing special about the relays, anything 12V in the slim case form factor.

I'd recommend the Tyco FX2 Series - Tyco #D3226

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Cat=1049448&k=D3226

The FX2 series coil current draw is so low already, that if you use those then no need for the dropping resistors, just jumper them instead.

[envelope]

Thank You gentlemen.

 Bargraph mounting is a little finicky, as noted in the build guide, but with patience, the result looks great.

pic.