SSL9k BOM

Status: Finished*

I've been reformating the SSL9k BOM,
since I found the Neeno pdf machine-unreadable.
Please refer to the original bom found Here

The reformated BOM is Here

To do:
PSU BOM if anyone wants to do that

My aim for the BOM is budget-, newbie- and Europe-friendly and with good quality. I see no reason it shouldn't fit well for world-wide either, especially if you look at some choices I've noted.
Farnell is my main supplier for this BOM, adding a couple of more when Farnell can't supply or is to expensive.

Please:
- Check for errors
- Add useful info

..this a little experiment, to see if this is helpful for many, if it can be done like a colleboration, and if Google docs is a good place to do do this. Have fun!

I've set the settings so everyone can read and edit,
but I might change that for editing if it becomes a problem.

*Disclaimer: I've done my best to make sure this BOM with parts are correct. But, I'm one of the least qualified and experienced persons here. So, before some pro-guy states the parts are correct and a good choice, you should check things for yourself.

Here's a method to copy and paste at Farnell.

1. Download the BOM as excel/open office -file
2. Open in your favorite spreadsheet-app
3. Make your personal changes.
4. Save (backup file)
5. Save as html (to get rid of formulas)
6. Close and open file
7. Copy all to new spreadsheet.
8. Sort by supplier, then total quantity
9. Delete all rows that's not Farnell and has Quant = 0
10. Place the "total quantity" cloumn after "part number"
11. Highlight those colums
12. Copy and paste at Farnell.com

If you've made changes in your personal BOM, that you believe the average user would benefit from, please add/change in the above BOM. Thanks!

G-Sun said:

I've been reformating the SSL9k BOM,
since I found the Neeno pdf machine-unreadable

You can find it here:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AmEgFUTJT9ZtdFRWNU5OdFhJWkpNRGs3ZXpyaG9XLUE

Click to expand...

And why ??
Looks absolutely clear and logical here.

s2udio said:

And why ??
Looks absolutely clear and logical here.

Click to expand...

Well, I've tried copy and paste from the pdf. But, it's unusable that way (at least as far as I've managed)
So, compiling a list with part-numbers etc. for making your own complete BOM is a big hassle.
The second benefit is: You can paste it directly at Farnell.
Third: The new list can be updated, and could have some useful comments

But, if it's only me who thinks this could be a good idea, I can keep my reformatted BOM for myself..

I've added the parts for the balancing board, and updated with some links with the hard-to-find-parts.

Looked at the way Google docs handle versions/revisions,
and how easy it is to see changes. It's very important if many are going to edit.

Nice!

Hi,

Mainboard:

For IC31a/b you can drop in OPA2604 (direct replacement) for better performance.Omit the +/-15v then,make 2 jumpers to the +/-18v then.

Balancing board:

Direct drop-in replacement for the IC is DRV134PA (better behaviour due to oscillation and using unbalanced lines).

Cheers,

Udo.

kante1603 said:

Hi,

Mainboard:

For IC31a/b you can drop in OPA2604 (direct replacement) for better performance.Omit the +/-15v then,make 2 jumpers to the +/-18v then.

Balancing board:

Direct drop-in replacement for the IC is DRV134PA (better behaviour due to oscillation and using unbalanced lines).

Cheers,

Udo.

Click to expand...

Thanks! Very welcomed info
Would you please check if I got it right?

I would stick to building the circuit "AS IS" before attempting the modding route.......
IE walk before you can run !

+1. This preamp isn't popular because it is lacking. Try the stock version first, you may just love it.

Yes, I have no intention modding (as it is I'll go for the exact original parts myself).
It's more about what parts are available, and for a reasonable price, making some options clear for others.

- mods should be labeled mod-options.
- change in parts for availability/price could be helpful info indeed (Mat02 as example)

IMNHO (In my Newbie Honest Opinion )

Whats the: Unspecified, Ux, 100nF for ?

The Balancing board has 4 x 100uF but it's not listed in the BOM, why? What's right?

Gsun , this project was done at a time when projects were not so paint by numbers. There's a lot of info missing because it's ancient. The bypass caps were optional in keiths opinion (the creator of the original layout ). Now adays it's standard practice to bypass with 100nF.

s2udio said:

I would stick to building the circuit "AS IS" before attempting the modding route.......
IE walk before you can run !

Click to expand...

Hello,

I don´t see these drop-in replacements as a mod.
Have tried both versions.My second one (OPA2604) is easier to set up because you simply don´t need the 15v rails-it´s just 2 bridge wires on the bottom side (to keep it tidy) and you´re done.
Otherwise you have to create these rails,e.g. with the "diode-drop"-method or build a 4 rail psu.
BTW:It´s stated on the "corrected" schemo by Keith,right side at the bottom.
See att. file.

Cheers,

Udo.

gemini86 said:

Gsun , this project was done at a time when projects were not so paint by numbers. There's a lot of info missing because it's ancient. The bypass caps were optional in keiths opinion (the creator of the original layout ). Now adays it's standard practice to bypass with 100nF.

Click to expand...

Thanks! Good idea to update this BOM then

kante1603 said:

I don´t see these drop-in replacements as a mod.
Have tried both versions.My second one (OPA2604) is easier to set up because you simply don´t need the 15v rails-it´s just 2 bridge wires on the bottom side (to keep it tidy) and you´re done.
Otherwise you have to create these rails,e.g. with the "diode-drop"-method or build a 4 rail psu.
BTW:It´s stated on the "corrected" schemo by Keith,left side at the bottom.
See att. file.

Click to expand...

Thanks for clarifying!

R81, R117  seems hard/expensive. Is this a good choice:
http://no.farnell.com/rhopoint/8g16d-50k/resistor-0-33w-0-1-50k/dp/9622101
?

Ended up with this:
http://no.farnell.com/te-connectivity-cgs/mpc52503j/resistor-5w-50k/dp/1174278

A little less expensive, but the lead-spacing isn't quite right.

I've now added parts for resistors: Used 250mW, metal film where I could, but had to pick some ceramic, 400mW and so a few places.

L1, L2; 15uH:
Is this ok:
http://no.farnell.com/taiyo-yuden/lm-nrs8030t-150mjgj/smd-inductor-15uh-2-2a-20-20-mhz/dp/2066681
?

Changed to this
http://no.farnell.com/murata-power-solutions/13r153c/inductor-15uh-10-2-5a-th-radial/dp/2062691
The leads seems right here.