My Pipe

Since Ju started his mic thread I figured why not. I'm finally building my pipe-mic after mutilating a few MXLs. Here we go...


EDIT: Now Finished!

Sweet. Looks like mine, only in silver :grin:

can I get frick'n lazers on mine?

ju

Chrome plated brass? Looks nice.

That's gotta be the most transparent capsule ever made... :wink:

Bet you catch alot of detail with it!

Looks good!

Yup, retro chrome!
I should have this thing finished in the next few days time permitting.

VERY GOOD!
and the singer can look at himself while singing :wink:

[quote author="Bauman"]VERY GOOD!
and the singer can look at himself while singing :wink:[/quote]

Boy, could I run with that!! :green:

But I won't.

Looks nice, Ethan.

WOW!!!! very clean. What did you use for the mesh? How are you attaching the bottom?

Ethan

Can you give some ideas on how you fitted the mesh. I`ve got 2 partially completed G7`s here that I`ve been pondering the best way to fit the mesh for some time.

Did you make the mesh like a tube & then solder/attach the top? How are you connecting it to the tube?

Rob thats a good point. With my fence post microphone I soldered steel mesh to the body. I then sandblasted it and painted it.

Now with brass if you solder it, how do you polish it up again? If you epoxy it I would think you would need conductive epoxy.

The problem for me is how to form it in such a way that it still fits in the body, & then attaching so its still in reasonable shape. I`ve seen several mics like this that people have built that look good & am wondering the best method.

The mesh I have is brass that Zebra50 kindly supplied me with. He said it was better to use a double layer, which makes this process a bit more tricky.

Maybe I`m just being a dumb @&$£

I used stainless steel mesh (which is a pain in the neck to cut and form) and epoxy. As Gus mentioned (although you don't have to use conductive epoxy) you have to make sure you have good continuity from the body to the mesh. I used one piece to wrap around the front and back (measure carefully so that you get a tight fit from end to end). Then dabbed the epoxy along the sides and bottom (not the top yet). I then formed the top making sure the frayed edges of the top mesh would clasp with the front and back roll of mesh. Before installing the top I put a healthy ring of epoxy inside the top edge and pushed the top mesh in to clasp with the front-back mesh.

Before doing this I actually measured the resistance between steel mesh and brass soldered together verses just tightly fitted with epoxy. The resistive difference was nonsignificant so I didn't bother to try soldering the mesh to the body, but took care to make sure there was good contact.

If anyone thinks it might be helpful to see the bottom or top let me know and I'll take some pics.

It seems that making the body and mesh is like an art all by itself, I can't wait to dig in to this.

I'm very impressed with you guys.

Thanks Ethan


Is there a brand name for the conductive epoxy. Maybe not the same type here in England, but you never know !!

I've used Devcon and Elmer's. I like the Devcon better. Don't use the kind in the double syringe. The way that it comes out it will seal the opening shut after the first use. Get the kind in two separate bottles/packets.

The Devcon Tru-Bond 206A is conductive.

I'd love to see the bottom and top! What kind of pipe did you use, and where did you get it? I'd love to build a G7, but the whole body thing scares the crap out of me. So seeing how you did it in greater detail would be good for me!!

Nice job, I love the chrome!!

That looks SO GOOD! :thumb: :thumb:

Yum, that looks se-ri-ous! nice job :thumb:

I just found an upright lamp that has about 6 foot of brass pipe that looks ripe for chopping...diam is only about 30mm tho :/

Hi,
I've had my two G7s running for well over a year now. The meshes are not glued or soldered to the body, just a tight fit due to the solder used to make the mesh assembly. I have had no problems with noise or hum whatsoever.

One trick I found is to roll the mesh up, push it inside the tube and then solder the grill together while the body holds it in place.

Mine are here.
http://www.omnipressor.com/Other/G7mics/Z-mesh.html

I used two layers but I'm sure just one would work fine.

z50

Nice... would that pipe happen to be sink-drain pipe?