> In order to pull channel 24, you have to remove the bottom panel, ribbon cable, mute group connectors on the entire left side of the mixer, all the pot caps, all the nuts, the fader, and a couple more screws! what a PITA!!!!!
Try replacing the rag-joint on a 1975 Ford Ranchero.
Rag-joint is a flex in the steering. It used to be rubberized canvas, but 1970s Ford used an "improved" polyurethane biscuit. Which cracks-up and falls out. Three-inch slop at the wheel, banging on the safety-stops.
The ragjoint is below the power brake, behind the steering box, tight to the frame and floor/firewall, and the exhaust-pipe is in the way too.
It is actually possible for a nimble youth with the right part to do it in place. My older neighbor ended up taking off the LF wheel, took out the inner fender (and all the cruft on it), loosened the outer fender, took the steering box right out, started taking the dashboard out but was stopped by secret screws (anyway the steering column must be dismasted first). Then taking the wrong part to a machine shop to get the safety-studs going the other way. Last I saw there were parts ALL over the shop, he had about 13 hours in, and another 3-13 hours to get the major parts back on.
He hopes to turn a $1,700 buy into a $2,700 sale but it's getting pretty close to break-even.
That's not counting the weak battery. He's got the alternator out but I'm 99% sure the alt is fine, he's got a bad connection somewhere. (My '79 Thunderbird, same car with a back seat, the big stuff never failed but all the silly dinky stuff gave trouble.)
OH! At least you had screws and connectors. On the '75-'79 Ranchero/Tbird, to replace the heater motor, you put a paper template on the inner fender and start cutting steel. That's the factory specified way to get it out. The factory replacement motor comes with a piece of tin to cover the hole you gotta make.
