Pultec and Neve paint colors

I've been doing a little research paint colors for authentic looking clones for Neve and Pulse Technologies gear (Pultec).

I have had no luck at all finding out what color was used on the Pultecs. Does anybody know? Considering the era Pultecs were made I assume they used an off the shelf automotive or military colors. My next step is to hire an EPQ-1A and take it down to an industrial paint store to get the color computer matched.

I had a lot better time finding the Neve colors. As per Geoff Tanner:

Back at the Neve factory major changes had taken place with a complete re-styling of the product range into "New Appearance Design" (NAD). The RAF Blue Grey paint work was replaced with Extra Dark Sea Grey, the Marconi control knobs were replaced with a custom Neve designed version, and all the lettering changed from upper case to lower case. The circle of dots around the control knobs also changed to a divided part circle. An easy way to establish a module's paint colour is to check if the module number has a 3 prefix. A 1084 module is RAF Blue Grey, a 31084 is NAD Extra Dark Sea Grey.

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After a web search I came across an English model company that makes accurate RAF paints. They sell RAF Blue Grey and Extra Dark Sea Grey.

Here is their webstore http://www.whiteensignmodels.com/acatalog/index.html?http%3A//www.whiteensignmodels.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_RAF_Fleet_Air_Arm_128.html&CatalogBody

Cheers,

elco

I found spray cans of both 'RAF Blue Grey' and 'Extra Dark Sea Grey' at my local Hobbytown USA. These are smaller cans, meant for models, but the color is accurate.

Most hobby stores that specialize in military miniatures will have these colors available. The larger Hobby Lobby and Michael's type stores don't really have the selection, but the serious mom-and-pop type model and hobby stores do.

Apparently these are/were fairly standard colors for the time, and the matches are remarkably good.

JC

Foudn this a while back..
Extra Dark Sea Grey has a Pantone equivelant of Pantone 432

Maybe Frank from NRG knows something, he did some really nice Pultec copy faceplates if I recall correctly... Frank??

...

[quote author="uk03878"]Foudn this a while back..
Extra Dark Sea Grey has a Pantone equivelant of Pantone 432[/quote]

A little birdie told me the Extra Dark Sea Grey = 505B5D
or CMYK 14-2.2-0-63.5

I had to drive some kilometers to get my hands on a real pultec.
From pictures I'd seen blue coloured pultecs next to green coloured pultecs so i know the green colour is not from the picture.

I'd found two nice colours at the building center. But I'd been told that these colours wouldn't work good on metal.
Another problem is, you have to sand the panels many times so the colour wouldn't flake off, you have to use a "primer" or "ground coat".



In the end I developed a new colour from the RAL cards I'd bought.



The final colour is mixed with the following recipe:

200g 5024 RAL
50g 5009 RAL
40g SPIES/HECKAR 553 Lasurazurblau
40g SPIES/HECKAR 502 schwarz

My panels were done by a professionel paint shop in the end and I would do it every time again. If you want to use the colour you have to find a paintshop who uses "Spies & Heckar" Colours, most of them have an advertising sign-plate on their buildings.

I talked to schaeffer apparatebau about engraving frontpanels which had been laquered. They told me horrow stories about guys who'd send self laquered panels to them. And also the panels from the paintshop flaked off a bit at the sides where the panels are fastened to the cnc maschine, because the sides of the panel aren't sanded and such... I had to put tape on the sides and then it worked, next time I have to tell the guy in the paintshop that he has to sand the panel sides also. :wink:

Frank knows an answer for everything. :thumb: :grin:

does anyone know the RAL colour code for the NEVE panels?

Best,
Mattia.

Aaron told me about this shop: http://www.profiautolacke.de/Spraydosen/Autolack:::143_145.html
you can get your own spraypaint colors mixed!

(BTW Aaron has his own Pultec-Knob-Store: don-audio.com, hope thats okay to mention this)

Self etching metal primer & 2 stage Automotive paint and clearcoat ( Dupont , BASF PPG ) works for me since powder coating
has become a costly option in my area for one offs.

HVLP gravity fed detail gun and small compressor (capable of 50 psi continuous) from Harbour Freight will pay for itself many times over for your DIY projects. Durable and professional finishes can be done. The HVLP gun sells for $20 US when they go on sale.

http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=detail+gun

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46719

Automotive finishes afford many different options over typical rattle cans. This includes and is not
limited to epoxy finishes (super durable)which can be mixed and sprayed as a single stage application rather than 2 stage color and clearcoat ( good for decals, dial graphics, logos ).

I can't stand rattle cans because they clog up and sometimes your left with a can of paint you cant spray anymore or the nozzle gets fouled affecting misting and spray pattern. rattle cans do not allow for the adjustment in spray pattern and misting control like a HVLP detail gun mentioned above.

Hey guys,

I use a paint called rustoleum, i just mix until i get the colour i need so no idea of the RAL,

i thought its was great for engraving in but lately since using my HVLP spray system, im having problems getting it to stick fast to the aluminium panels, i wonder if its the thinners amybe?

any thoughts welcome,
best
Pete

Guys, whatever paint product you use, please wear appropriate mask and in a well ventilated place. Do not do it in home environment particularly where  children are around. Normal paint is one thing, but using paint products such as etching primer and two part epoxy based paint will etch into your skin and lungs. No kidding. Make sure that you have proper extraction taking the spray away from you.

Always use gloves like the surgical ones. People clean the paint off their hands using thinner, thinking that the thinner evaporates. Some of it does but a substantial amount sinks into your skin. If you are using a spray gun do not ever put your finger on the nozzle to clean it. It will inject paint/thinner straight into your body.

I must admit I have been guilty of some of above when I was younger but still I wanted to remind you.

electrochronic said:

Self etching metal primer & 2 stage Automotive paint and clearcoat ( Dupont , BASF PPG ) works for me since powder coating
has become a costly option in my area for one offs.

HVLP gravity fed detail gun and small compressor (capable of 50 psi continuous) from Harbour Freight will pay for itself many times over for your DIY projects. Durable and professional finishes can be done. The HVLP gun sells for $20 US when they go on sale.

http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=detail+gun

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46719

Automotive finishes afford many different options over typical rattle cans. This includes and is not
limited to epoxy finishes (super durable)which can be mixed and sprayed as a single stage application rather than 2 stage color and clearcoat ( good for decals, dial graphics, logos ).

I can't stand rattle cans because they clog up and sometimes your left with a can of paint you cant spray anymore or the nozzle gets fouled affecting misting and spray pattern. rattle cans do not allow for the adjustment in spray pattern and misting control like a HVLP detail gun mentioned above.

Click to expand...

Has this approach been able to withstand standard engraving pretty well?

I went through the ringer with FrontPanelExpress while doing my Pultecs.  Outside of powder coating they were not able to suggest an appropriate type of paint that wasn't likely to smudge or smear during the engraving process.  I wound up having them laser engraved.

Always worth considering if you're going that route.