JLM Tardigrade and Magnum Console

[Siegfried Meier]

Hey all!

I’m struggling to decide on how best to get from our Magnum buss outs (which are all unbalanced) into the 16 pin IDC of the JLM Tardigrade balancers.

The Magnum buss outs terminate on an EDAC connector and initially I considered a short cable from EDAC out to the JLM board in, but can’t seem to figure out a clean way to get into a 16 pin IDC connector…

Any thoughts much appreciated!
Thanks,
Sig

 

[NOON]

IDC implies ribbon cable, which won't be neat with EDAC. I assume the converter board will be in it's own case of some sort, I'd use ribbon internally to some kind of sensible external panel mount connector like DB25, then make or buy the appropriate cable.

 

[Siegfried Meier]

IDC implies ribbon cable, which won't be neat with EDAC. I assume the converter board will be in it's own case of some sort, I'd use ribbon internally to some kind of sensible external panel mount connector like DB25, then make or buy the appropriate cable.

Ya, I was thinking an unbalanced db25 input that’s wired to the ribbon cable…I’ve never split and soldered to a raw ribbon cable before, is this the normal procedure? They seem quite thin and brittle…

 

[kags]

Ya, I was thinking an unbalanced db25 input that’s wired to the ribbon cable…I’ve never split and soldered to a raw ribbon cable before, is this the normal procedure? They seem quite thin and brittle…

When you assemble the tardigrade, you don't have to mount the ribbon header on the PCB if you don't want to. Then you have the option of soldering wires directly from the PCB and to a Dsub or other connector for your unbalanced inputs. That might save you some dough on the IDC cables, too, if you already have wire that you can use. If this is inside a metal box, you don't need to use shielded cable, but if you use your own wire, i would recommend twisting each channel's pair together.

Splitting a ribbon cable is not difficult, either. Think of it as a bunch of single wires that are just attached side-by-side. The wires are not difficult to work with and can usually be split apart with your fingernails or by starting the split with a razor. There is really no risk of damaging anything by separating the wires in a ribbon, just be reasonable and don't force anything into extreme angles.

If you want more specific advise and cost benefits, shoot an email to Joe at JLM. He is usually generous with information and advice about using his products.

 

[Rob Flinn]

You can get IDC Dsub 25 connectors, if you use these then you don't have to do any ribbon cable splitting. The only hassle may be to buzz out how the IDC connector relates to the DB25.

 

[kags]

You can get IDC Dsub 25 connectors, if you use these then you don't have to do any ribbon cable splitting. The only hassle may be to buzz out how the IDC connector relates to the DB25.

Those adapters are cool, but a bit pricey (at least the ones I've seen like $10 US each). It would be interesting to compare their pinout to JLMs. Is there a standard IDC pinout, as there is with DB25? I've only noted the IDC pinouts on the SSL boards, and their audio ribbons (usually 20-pin) go Ov, sig1, 0V, sig 2, etc...

In the interest of saving some cash and with the OP's trepidation of dealing with ribbons, probably wiring a dSub directly to the Tardigrade PCB is the most direct course of action. Plus, this is not a complicated build that needs to be modular for repairs. Keepin' it simple...

 

[Rob Flinn]

Those adapters are cool, but a bit pricey (at least the ones I've seen like $10 US each). It would be interesting to compare their pinout to JLMs. Is there a standard IDC pinout, as there is with DB25? I've only noted the IDC pinouts on the SSL boards, and their audio ribbons (usually 20-pin) go Ov, sig1, 0V, sig 2, etc...

In the interest of saving some cash and with the OP's trepidation of dealing with ribbons, probably wiring a dSub directly to the Tardigrade PCB is the most direct course of action. Plus, this is not a complicated build that needs to be modular for repairs. Keepin' it simple...

I am not talking about adaptors. These are IDC Dsub connectors. This sort of thing, but they do them with different amount of pins.
https://ccsukltd.co.uk/9-WAY-IDC-D-SUB-PLUG-THROUGH-HOLE

 

[kags]

I am not talking about adaptors. These are IDC Dsub connectors. This sort of thing, but they do them with different amount of pins.
https://ccsukltd.co.uk/9-WAY-IDC-D-SUB-PLUG-THROUGH-HOLE

Nice one! The price is great for the 9-pin—at Mouser they are 5x-10x that price! Good solution if 9-pin connectors work for the task.

 

[Rob Flinn]

Nice one! The price is great for the 9-pin—at Mouser they are 5x-10x that price! Good solution if 9-pin connectors work for the task.

They definitely do them as a 25 pin because I have used them in the past.

 

[Siegfried Meier]

When you assemble the tardigrade, you don't have to mount the ribbon header on the PCB if you don't want to. Then you have the option of soldering wires directly from the PCB and to a Dsub or other connector for your unbalanced inputs. That might save you some dough on the IDC cables, too, if you already have wire that you can use. If this is inside a metal box, you don't need to use shielded cable, but if you use your own wire, i would recommend twisting each channel's pair together.

Splitting a ribbon cable is not difficult, either. Think of it as a bunch of single wires that are just attached side-by-side. The wires are not difficult to work with and can usually be split apart with your fingernails or by starting the split with a razor. There is really no risk of damaging anything by separating the wires in a ribbon, just be reasonable and don't force anything into extreme angles.

If you want more specific advise and cost benefits, shoot an email to Joe at JLM. He is usually generous with information and advice about using his products.

I think this is the best method - I had plans on putting 4 of these into a 1u chassis anyway. Do an unbalanced db25 in, soldered direct to the tardigtade, then db25 back out to the patchbay. I’ll keep the 1u chassis super close to the bottom of the console where the EDAC is, and cut the existing EDAC cable off and turn it into a short EDAC - unbalanced db25.

Thanks for the advice!
Sig

 

[CFB4]

I am not talking about adaptors. These are IDC Dsub connectors. This sort of thing, but they do them with different amount of pins.
https://ccsukltd.co.uk/9-WAY-IDC-D-SUB-PLUG-THROUGH-HOLE

This is awesome, thank you so much!!