MixBuzz1 Build/Support thread

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evilcat said:
What load ? The main board or a simple resistor ?
a simple resistor. 3k3 is a good value, at 15 Volt it will only be conducting 0.0045Amps and dissipating 0.0668 Watts. enough to get the 7x1x's workin inside range though.
evilcat said:
The +/-15V rails are there for making +/-12V thru 7812 & 7912, right ? They don't supply anything else, do they ?
No they are not, they are also powering some of the opamps, VCA's, metering chips etc.
 
tomcat said:
Put some load on the output and measure again. The 78xx and 79xx tend to produce higher voltages without load.

Ok, here we go with a dumb question !!! How do you put some load : you connect one side of the resistor to the -15V rail, but the other side ? It stays "free" ? Or do I connect it to the ground ?
Sorry again for this silly question :p
 
Thanks a lot. I'm ashame of this silly question but I prefer asking than burning something :D, and I know that on this forum, I'll not be judged, not like on other "sound forum" !
 
Wouhou !!! Good news, with a 1k5 , 1W resistor, my rail give me a beautiful -14.99 V. Thanks guys. Now, let's wired that beast ;D.
 
Wow, I got mine working!

LED meter:

I think I blew some IC's for the meter. It is normal behavior for the LED meter to dimly light up with no signal?

Thanks!
 
Problem with the meter:
I had the wrong PNP transistor in my kit and once powered on the meter was full on (doesn't matter the in-out-gr switch was)
-changed the transistors with a 2N2222 (same as PN2222 in a different case), changed the CD4016
my problem is still the same...meter is full on.
any idea?
 
gec said:
Problem with the meter:
I had the wrong PNP transistor in my kit and once powered on the meter was full on (doesn't matter the in-out-gr switch was)
-changed the transistors with a 2N2222 (same as PN2222 in a different case), changed the CD4016
my problem is still the same...meter is full on.
any idea?

PNP, are you sure ? Mine is NPN, as it seems to be on schematic and it works. Check this one on Mouser : 512-2N3904TFR.
I had a problem with my meter, and it was only that my ICs were not right on the sockets : some pins were not in contact with sockets (I don't know if I'm clear, sorry for that !).

Good luck.

Ben.
 
I mean that in the kit I received from Igor there was a wrong transistor, the 2N4403 (wich is a PNP) and I used it my first time, then I switched for the 2N2222...
 
Did you check your voltages without ICs in sockets ? Check orientation too. Did you put wiper of Offset L/R trimmers to ground (see calibration of meter) ?
 
Ok guys, I've finished mine. This is my 3rd build and I’m finally proud of it (the others are a bit messy) ! This thing sound awesome !!! It is full featured, with Attack/Release on pots, all ratios, 4x2181 VCAs etc... I’ve done some mastering works with it and it’s amazing how you can tune your mixes : SC filter let the low end breath, the Release can put guitars forward w/ fast setting or backward when you slowered it, and then, when you have a tight mix, you let it breath with the Crush’n’blend. Fantastic !

Some photos :

Front :
front.jpg



Inside :
inside.jpg



Inside front 1 :
inside2.jpg



Inside front 2 :
inside3.jpg




To everyone interested by this compressor : the new features implemented by Igor are really, really great sounding !
Soft / Tight : labelled “classic / modern” in my build. It really does what it says, nothing more to say, and it really sounds great.
Single / Dual : the dual release envelop is outstanding on mix buss, you absolutly don’t need any Auto release.


Building infos :

The unit is DEAD QUIET ! Ground scheme is simple :
- center stand-off of the main PCB should be connected to the case (don’t forget to scratch the paint)
- pins 1 of XLRs connected to the main PCB (as labelled)
- and finally, case connected to Earth of the IEC.
By the way, I’ve been told by a great electronic engineer than if you have more than 2 wires, you should weave and not twist your wires, it avoid creating inductances ! Now that’s what I do with power transformers and their 4 secondary wires. I don’t know if it’s better, but I haven’t any noise problem...

I found this project to be pretty simple, even if it looks complicated ! Read the build thread, Igor’s docs and photos and you’re ready to solder. Again, nothing complicated, just beware of polarysed components (diodes and electro caps), check every thing before solder it and TAKE YOUR TIME ! I read these docs a lot while I was preparing my shopping list, it helps anticipated any futur issue, and so I didn’t have any problem, everything goes flawlessly !!! It worked at the 1st powering up.


Here is an excell doc of the BOM with EVERY THING YOU NEED to build this project :
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=4K2FOCVD

(EDIT: as MEGAUPLOAD is "dead" you can email me and I'll send you the excell file right away!)

It’s almost exclusively a Mouser shopping list, plus some things like the LED meter Ics LM3914N which needs to be ordered elsewhere (in my case Radiospares, the french RS Components). If you wanna build it with rotary switches and stepped Attack/Release, you’ll have to avoid some pots and add some rotary switches, but every caps and resistors are on the BOM. If you wanna build it with Attack/Release on pots, avoid some caps and resistors (see  the Notes column).


Here is also my Mouser Cart for potted Att/Rel version :
http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=82632283cc

For rotary switches version, adjust some quantities, and add or avoid some caps and resistors. You will just have to add enclosure, power transformer, IEC connector, fuse and LM3914N, and that’s it ! And you also need ribbon cable, you have the Mouser reference in the excell BOM but it’s a 100’ reel !


And finally, here is an “Attack/Release wiring for dummies” diagram, we never know, it could help :
Attack_Releasewiring.jpg




OK, I think that’s it. Thanks to Igor for this wondefull project and God bless DIY.

Ben.


 
Hi everyone,

I have a pretty big "pop" when I'm switching the comp IN and OUT. The weird thing is that I didn't noticed that in the beginning. I finished it 2 weeks ago and it seems that the pop noise appears 1 week later. Ideas ???

Ben.
 
evilcat said:
Hi everyone,

I have a pretty big "pop" when I'm switching the comp IN and OUT. The weird thing is that I didn't noticed that in the beginning. I finished it 2 weeks ago and it seems that the pop noise appears 1 week later. Ideas ???

Ben.

It would seem to me that this is due to DC offset from outside the Mixbuzz. Bypass is via relays, so there shouldn't be a pop. The fact that this behaviour started later makes me think that it's probably connected differently now, and DC voltage is present in the new configuration. just my guess tho
 
Hi all,
posting with a little problem of my own  :mad:
have just finished building Mixbuzz 2 and 3 they both have a 12dB loss from input to output, with threshold on maximum and make up gain on minimum (i.e. no compression applied). In an effort to exclude the whole VCA/sidechain side from my investigations I am wondering if it is ok to pull the dbx202-replacement boards out and just put a jumper from input to output, like so:
vcas_bypassed.png

This would just be to see where those 12dB are getting lost....
cheers briomusic
 
briomusic said:
.. wondering if it is ok to pull the dbx202-replacement boards out and just put a jumper from input to output, like ...
This would just be to see where those 12dB are getting lost....
Don't use a jumper, but a 5K resistor to substitute for the 4x paralleled 20K resistors in front of the VCAs. Your level drop might come from fitted R6l and R6r with values higher than nada ohm.
 
briomusic said:
Few problems left to deal with:

Meter in IN and OUT modes only shows signal applied to the right channel, but on both bargraphs. What could be causing this? (When calibrating I also noticed that only the right-hand Offset and Range trimmers had any effect on the LED meter.)

I have the same behavior. Signal applied to right channel, but on both bargraphs. Also I get the bargraph lighting up full but signal is overlayed that in a brighter LED. Cool effect but I am sure this is not what was intended.

The fix for this was not posted (well a diode was reversed - but that did not fix the problem.

What is the fix.
 
Harpo said:
briomusic said:
.. wondering if it is ok to pull the dbx202-replacement boards out and just put a jumper from input to output, like ...
This would just be to see where those 12dB are getting lost....
Don't use a jumper, but a 5K resistor to substitute for the 4x paralleled 20K resistors in front of the VCAs. Your level drop might come from fitted R6l and R6r with values higher than nada ohm.

edit: sorted!
harpos post made me think about my vca's and it turns out i had R3l/r wrong 4k99 is on the BOM and correct for 4 VCAs but I only have one so 20k is the correct value. back at unity gain now  ;D
briomusic
 
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