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tekno808 said:
piano said:
1) Can I use the SOFT/TIGHT and DUAL switches with the stepped LORIN switch/pcb stock Igor kit build --- instead of using pots?

Can someone answer this please.
If you use lorlin rotary switch No, with potmeters Yes ! Look at the picture from Igor !

Danny


Danny,

I am sorry to say that your statement confuses me ??? ???
Igor's photos just show the extremes you can built with this kit (minimal / full blown).

Please check Igor's handdrawn wiring schematic on how to include the option for 'Tight/Soft' and 'Single/Dual' as well as the pots (Reply #50 of this thread) and compare it to the complete schematic which shows the Lorlin version.

The soft/tight switch is connected to JP4 on the motherboard and doesn't care if you use pots or Lorlins.
Otherwise you will need a jumper on JP4 to get the compressor properly working. Either on Pins 1-2 or 2-3.
For single/dual - you'll need different resistors on Pos 5&6 for the Release PCB the Lorlin is soldered to.
See Reply #52 by Igor:

Attack: pot or switch, value changes from 820R to 100k.
I used log pot here, 'cause I prefer to have extended "fast" range.

Release: pot or switch, value changes from 100k to 1megOhm at least.
I.e. use linear pot with 1meg, or 1.5meg, or 2meg value.
Release switch board changes both resistors and capacitors, at 5th and 6th positions,
there are "dual release" settings.

There is even a third option (which would be in between the two extremes):
- Install the soft/tight switch on JP4
- omit the single / dual switch of the full blown version
- leave the Lorlins as suggested by Igor (you will have 'dual' on pos 5&6 of the release switch)

In fact the Lorlins behave as 'stepped Pots' - Igor's selection of resistors for attack and release is pretty fine and implement more constants than the original SSL has to offer.
The pot gives the advantage of fully variable time constants.


Long story short:
It is possible to install the switches Piano asked for - no matter if you use pots or Lorlins. Just compare the schematics to get the idea.



Regards,


Chris

 
Allright folks, had some etching to be done this afternoon so i made the LED boards for the people who were interested.
BUT you were warned that this PCB is not DIY friendly for soldering, etching neither, but as always with the right tools everything seems easy ( ;) to livingnote), you'll see that some pads are really close to tracks and so a blob solder will short no doubt.
PLUS Even if my drilling was not bad, you still don't have a lot of pad left, but hey i'm not a Robot right  :), so these pads won't like to be heated too much, if done so the pad will surely come out...

You need:

- Good soldering skills
- A fine tip and fine solder
- Patience
- Yoga twice a week
- And last but not least: A Beer......

No second chance on this one if you fail, so Chefducuisine provided me, with the Layout PDF, a little note to read before proceeding, and i'll provide a rougly cuted in 3 test board i did to get my marks, so you can try soldering on those small boards to see if you can take it.

http://img593.imageshack.us/img593/9113/p1030573l.jpg
http://img810.imageshack.us/img810/1914/p1030575l.jpg

So:

SKJGProject
Tomcat
Jandoste

Email your Email.


----------------------------------------------------------------------
Will our DIY fellows succeed in their path to enlightment????
Will they fail as their motivation is at the top?

Answers on the next episode of "Chefducuisine's LED Board"    Stay Tuned

PS: too much chemicals i guess ::) ;D



 
Zayance,

Congrats - quality looks good to me...
You where really fast.

I am curious on what will happen on the next episode of "Chefducuisine's LED Board"  ;D
...will stay tuned for sure because those chemicals seem to be inspiring!!!  :D

May the the force of the soldering fumes be with you...


Regards,


Chris

 
this is so awesome....

- Good soldering skills  hmmm CHECK
- A fine tip and fine solder  CHECK i love my Weller WTCP-S
- Patience CHECK
- Yoga twice a week NAAAAAH
- And last but not least: A Beer...... Lots of Tannenzäpfle  ;D

4 out of 5 seems to be enough....can't wait!

@Chris where did you get your case from?
 
chefducuisine said:
Danny,

I am sorry to say that your statement confuses me ??? ???
Igor's photos just show the extremes you can built with this kit (minimal / full blown).

Ok Chris my mistake, my answer was just to make it easy to everyone , either you build it with potmeters or Lorlin and build according to Igor's Pictures !

Danny.
 
Danny,
ahh, now I got your intention! Thanks for clarifiying. :)

SKJG Project:
My Case was an old 19" server fan assembly containing 3 120mm fans. I just replaced the front plate and put a sheet of 0,5 mm Aluminium to the bottom of the case to close the vent holes. The top cover remained unchanged. The frontpanel was engraved by Frank (nrgrecording) who provided an excellent service.



Regards,


Chris
 
Can anyone help me locate the headers and sockets to connect the the layered boards like the meter driver and ratios? I'm not sure where to look on mouser for them.
 
benlindell said:
Can anyone help me locate the headers and sockets to connect the the layered boards like the meter driver and ratios? I'm not sure where to look on mouser for them.

male Header, right angle : http://fr.mouser.com/ProductDetail/3M-Electronic-Solutions-Division/929835-01-28-RK/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtsLRyDR9nM1%2fLxT3I%2fPP0vCvC1jmeU%252b04%3d

male Header, vertical : http://fr.mouser.com/ProductDetail/3M-Electronic-Solutions-Division/929834-01-36-RK/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtsLRyDR9nM12Ik4oOFTZuH1OtTAyMJjus%3d

female socket : http://fr.mouser.com/ProductDetail/3M-Electronic-Solutions-Division/929974-01-36-RK/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtsLRyDR9nM139kIrI9UMP6YMMTXMNYFZc%3d

I have links for everything you need !!! I've made an excel document w/ everything, right now I build my unit before putting it online cause there's 1 or 2 mistakes. All are Mouser links.

Ben
 
Thank you so much for answering my question Chef!

ON the release board, I am getting distortion on the .9 setting. I am missing the A (auto) parts. Is below correct from what I have sussed out from the posts?

Also, what does TL and TM stand for and do in the filters?
 

Attachments

  • Release Board.pdf
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To answer Piano's question about release board:
"ON the release board, I am getting distortion on the .9 setting. I am missing the A (auto) parts. Is below correct from what I have sussed out from the posts?"

No you need a jumper at RR2 and a 750K ohm resistor at RR1, or else you will short the 0.47UF cap with the jumper.
 
MixBuzz ready to  rock !
Thanks to Igor for the great HELP, Mata_Haze , Frank@ for Front Panel !

This Beast is amazing !

mixbuzz3.jpg


mixbuzz2.jpg


mixbuzz1.jpg

 
Hi everyone !

I powered up my PSU for the 1st time today. All voltages are fine except the -15V rail : I have -20V ! Is it normal ? Is it too much ? Should I change something ? The 7915, or simply put a resistor for dropping down the voltage ? Thanks for any feedback.

Ben
 
Put some load on the output and measure again. The 78xx and 79xx tend to produce higher voltages without load.
 
What load ? The main board or a simple resistor ?
The +/-15V rails are there for making +/-12V thru 7812 & 7912, right ? They don't supply anything else, do they ? If yes, maybe the 7912 would pulldown the voltage enough, it accepts -23V max.
Damn I will have to wait monday to do this now, I'm on vacation :( ;D
Thanks anyway, Ben.
 
Anything which needs some mA. Take a relais or a bulb for example.

The mainboard i wouldnt use, you want to test the PSU before you connect it to the mainboard, no? ;)
 
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