I'm using the JLM ACDC & following the directions below for my "JC" version of the 1272.
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=19648
QUESTION: JC says to bring the 0v of the PS back to the AC GND lug BUT the JLM has a 10ohm resistor which connects the 0v to the case... :?
Should I lift the 10ohm & run from this point back to the GND Lug?
Also, should the 10ohm be removed completely?
I'll be using a 31267 for the input transformer so I'd like to keep things quiet per JC instructions.
http://jlmaudio.com/Neve transformer info.htm
Thanks,
Kevin
[quote author="rascalseven"]I'm not the most informed person regarding things electronic, but I've built many channels of Neve class-A preamps, and I've learned, by trial and error, and the occasional instruction from Geoff Tanner, how to achieve a dead-silent, excellent-sounding preamp. BTW I have used almost exclusively Marinair or St.Ives 31267's wired backwards per Joe Malone's instructions (one primary and one secondary, pin 6 to chassis, and no connection for the unused windings).
I am confident that much of the problems people experience with noise and hum in class-A Neve kit come from the grounding and shielding scheme used for the entire unit. Until I understood how to properly execute the grounding I had all kinds of noise/hum issues, but once I started consistently grounding and shielding these units as I describe below, ALL of these issues dissappeared completely.
To understand this post, as well as the many posts Geoff Tanner has made on this subject on various forums (and there are many) it is helpful to understand Neve's terminology:
"B+" = +24v
"B-" = +0v from the PSU (consider this 'audio ground')
"Earth" = chassis metalwork and AC ground pin
It seems many single-ended grounding schemes seem to equate B- and Earth, but they are very different when it comes to things Neve.
First I'll hit on grounding, then shielding. Assuming the PSU is in the chassis with the actual audio circuits do this:
Run a wire from AC inlet ground pin to chassis. Run a second wire from the same AC inlet ground pin to the +0v (B-) of the power supply (don?t connect the 0v of the power supply to the chassis?. ONLY to the AC inlet ground pin). (so you have two wires attached to the AC inlet ground pin? one to chassis, the other to PSU 0v)
Attach a second wire to the 0v of the PSU board and connect the other end to the B- (audio ground) of the audio circuit PCB.
Connect the +24v of the PSU to the appropriate spot on the circuit board
Attach the core of the input and output transformers to the chassis (pin 6 in the inputs if they?re Marinair or St.Ives).
If the PSU is external attach like so:
Run a wire from AC inlet ground pin to PSU chassis. Run a second wire from the same AC inlet ground pin to the +0v (B-) of the power supply PCB (don?t connect the 0v of the power supply to the chassis?. ONLY to the AC inlet ground pin). (This is the same as first step above)
Run three separate wires from the PSU to the actual unit: 1) +24v, 2) B- (0v of PSU board), and 3) Earth (chassis connection). Connect the chassis lead to the chassis, the +24v lead to the circuit board (obviously), and the B- (0v) to the audio ground on the circuit PCB (Not to chassis).
In this fashion you will notice that with the PSU disconnected from the main unit there is no electrical connection between the chassis and the audio ground (B-), but when you connect it to the PSU, the electrical connection is made. By having the connection between B- and Earth at the PSU only, you eliminate all kinds of noise. The argument can, of course, be made that electrically B- and Earth connect ultimately anyway, so why bother with all the routing of wires? This I cannot really explain fully, due to my lack of real hard electrical design knowledge, however, as I understand it, because the audio transformer cores are connected to the chassis, those cores can be excited by the current modulation of the power supply (current, not voltage) creating noise in the signal. By connecting the B- and Earth at the shortest distance to actual Earth (the AC inlet ground pin), this noise is eliminated.
I can?t explain it better than that, but I can assure you this REALLY WORKS!!
As for shielding, if you look at Neve schematics (or inside an actual Neve module) you will see LOTS of shielding. Basically, with few exceptions, every wire that carries an audio signal is shielded to B- (audio ground). Use individually shielded wires for each connection to the gain switch of a mic preamp, shield the input XLR?s, and the leads from the secondary of the input transformer and connection to the primary of the output transformer, as well as leads to the output XLR. That?s a lot of shielding, but by doing so you get rid of all the interferance.
Don?t make the mistake (as I did) of using shielded pair for connections that terminated close to one another? if those two wires are carrying different signals, they will interact with one another and create problems. Use shielded pair only for the inputs from and outputs to the XLR?s as well as the send to and from the fader/trim pot. Other than these three connections, stick with individually-shielded wire. All XLR pin 1?s go to B- (audio ground), not the chassis.
I hope this makes sense. By doing this my DIY 3-stage preamp?s (think 1290) are actually quieter than a REAL 1290 that I have, especially at the full 80dB of gain. Every other grounding/shielding combo created problems.
Hope this helps! :thumb:
JC[/quote]