jensenmann
Well-known member
Congrats, Matt
That´s very very nice DIY :thumb:
you ROCK!
:thumb:
That´s very very nice DIY :thumb:
you ROCK!
:thumb:
A 'Neve'er ending story (with pics)
- Thread starter matta
- Start date
Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:
dripelectronics
Well-known member
damn , that mo fo loooks like pure pro quality !!
good job matta.
g.
good job matta.
g.
that'a boy, Matt! Very nice indeed. Looks hot!
T
T
KingKai
Well-known member
Very nice work Matta.
Of the two neveish boxes, I like the two channel unit the most. Layout and knob selection are just wonderfull. :grin:
Keep up the good work!! or should that be "Quit it your'e makin' me look bad" :green:
Peace - Out, Irv
Of the two neveish boxes, I like the two channel unit the most. Layout and knob selection are just wonderfull. :grin:
Keep up the good work!! or should that be "Quit it your'e makin' me look bad" :green:
Peace - Out, Irv
khstudio
Well-known member
Matt,
Very cool :thumb: That must have been a bitch :shock:
I started my 1272 project & have the L31267's also...
How exactly did you wire them?
I've seen the JLM site & wondered which option you chose & how do you think it sounds using that tranny?
Also, I noticed you used the JLM ACDC & I thought about doing the same to make life easy. Could you tell me what you left off of the supply to make it work?
Also, could you recommend a toroidal or VA/ma rating for a 2 channel version with phantom?
ANY advise would be great.
Thanks man,
Kevin
Very cool :thumb: That must have been a bitch :shock:
I started my 1272 project & have the L31267's also...
How exactly did you wire them?
I've seen the JLM site & wondered which option you chose & how do you think it sounds using that tranny?
Also, I noticed you used the JLM ACDC & I thought about doing the same to make life easy. Could you tell me what you left off of the supply to make it work?
Also, could you recommend a toroidal or VA/ma rating for a 2 channel version with phantom?
ANY advise would be great.
Thanks man,
Kevin
Tekay
Well-known member
Looks like you've been busy, keep up the good work!
matta
Well-known member
[quote author="khstudio"]Matt,
Very cool :thumb: That must have been a bitch :shock:
I started my 1272 project & have the L31267's also...
How exactly did you wire them?
I've seen the JLM site & wondered which option you chose & how do you think it sounds using that tranny?
Also, I noticed you used the JLM ACDC & I thought about doing the same to make life easy. Could you tell me what you left off of the supply to make it work?
Also, could you recommend a toroidal or VA/ma rating for a 2 channel version with phantom?
ANY advise would be great.
Thanks man,
Kevin[/quote]
Hi Kevin,
I wired the trafo as you see it on Joe's site so, as follows.
XLR Pin2 to Go Between Kit to to Trafo Pin 8
XLR Pin 3 to Go Between Kit Trafo Pin 10
Pin 3 of Trafo to Hot Rod Board in +
Pin 5 of Trafo to Hot Rod Board in -
With Pin 6 mouted to the trano post, which is mounted to the chassis
What seems weird is that I think the phase is reversed now... at least to my ears... need to check it that it isn't something else down the line.
RE the supply, it depends on how you are going to wire it? I have modded mine to offer +24V and +48V full wave rectification from only a single winding, i.e +24V with not CT.
It requires a few jumpers and leaving off a few parts, shoot me an e-mail at matt(@)matt-allison(dot)com and I will send you a pic.
As I mentioned I left the transformer OUTSIDE the box and can honestly say that is GREATLY reduces the hum, in fact it disappears.
For a 2 channel Neve I'd go with at LEAST a 30VA as they are quite power hungry and can pull up to an amp at start up and when calibrated correctly will draw between 110-120mA per channel.
I hope that helps!
Thanks TK, I forgot to thank you for the Neve docs for the BA183's! So Thanks for that, it was a lifesaver.
Cheers
Matt
Very cool :thumb: That must have been a bitch :shock:
I started my 1272 project & have the L31267's also...
How exactly did you wire them?
I've seen the JLM site & wondered which option you chose & how do you think it sounds using that tranny?
Also, I noticed you used the JLM ACDC & I thought about doing the same to make life easy. Could you tell me what you left off of the supply to make it work?
Also, could you recommend a toroidal or VA/ma rating for a 2 channel version with phantom?
ANY advise would be great.
Thanks man,
Kevin[/quote]
Hi Kevin,
I wired the trafo as you see it on Joe's site so, as follows.
XLR Pin2 to Go Between Kit to to Trafo Pin 8
XLR Pin 3 to Go Between Kit Trafo Pin 10
Pin 3 of Trafo to Hot Rod Board in +
Pin 5 of Trafo to Hot Rod Board in -
With Pin 6 mouted to the trano post, which is mounted to the chassis
What seems weird is that I think the phase is reversed now... at least to my ears... need to check it that it isn't something else down the line.
RE the supply, it depends on how you are going to wire it? I have modded mine to offer +24V and +48V full wave rectification from only a single winding, i.e +24V with not CT.
It requires a few jumpers and leaving off a few parts, shoot me an e-mail at matt(@)matt-allison(dot)com and I will send you a pic.
As I mentioned I left the transformer OUTSIDE the box and can honestly say that is GREATLY reduces the hum, in fact it disappears.
For a 2 channel Neve I'd go with at LEAST a 30VA as they are quite power hungry and can pull up to an amp at start up and when calibrated correctly will draw between 110-120mA per channel.
I hope that helps!
Thanks TK, I forgot to thank you for the Neve docs for the BA183's! So Thanks for that, it was a lifesaver.
Cheers
Matt
astrovic
Well-known member
Matt
There are 2 things that I find very impressive about your work:
1) You pay attention to every last detail
2) Every project you have done appears to be incrementally more difficult than the last.
Keep up the good work mate - it really is inspiring stuff.
Chris
There are 2 things that I find very impressive about your work:
1) You pay attention to every last detail
2) Every project you have done appears to be incrementally more difficult than the last.
Keep up the good work mate - it really is inspiring stuff.
Chris
khstudio
Well-known member
Matt,
email sent.
Interesting about the phase... I wondered how that would work out...
especially the other mic & Line in :?
The JLM site doesn't really mention phase issues. I should probably ask Matt or Joe too.
I decided to go with JC's design. Check it out :green:
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=229748
Thanks,
Kevin
email sent.
Interesting about the phase... I wondered how that would work out...
especially the other mic & Line in :?
The JLM site doesn't really mention phase issues. I should probably ask Matt or Joe too.
I decided to go with JC's design. Check it out :green:
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=229748
Thanks,
Kevin
matta
Well-known member
[quote author="khstudio"]Matt,
email sent.[/quote]
E-mail sent in return
[quote author="khstudio"]Interesting about the phase... I wondered how that would work out... especially the other mic & Line in :? [/quote]
[quote author="khstudio"]The JLM site doesn't really mention phase issues. I should probably ask Matt or Joe too.[/quote]
Phase issue was solved after chatting to Joe. Apparently the PDF I had with the mod had the output transformer pins to the output XLR's the wrong way round, easy fix and all is A OK.
[quote author="khstudio"]I decided to go with JC's design. Check it out :green:
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=229748
Thanks,
Kevin[/quote]
Interesting developments, I look forward to seeing it develop further.
Cheers
Matt
email sent.[/quote]
E-mail sent in return
[quote author="khstudio"]Interesting about the phase... I wondered how that would work out... especially the other mic & Line in :? [/quote]
[quote author="khstudio"]The JLM site doesn't really mention phase issues. I should probably ask Matt or Joe too.[/quote]
Phase issue was solved after chatting to Joe. Apparently the PDF I had with the mod had the output transformer pins to the output XLR's the wrong way round, easy fix and all is A OK.
[quote author="khstudio"]I decided to go with JC's design. Check it out :green:
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=229748
Thanks,
Kevin[/quote]
Interesting developments, I look forward to seeing it develop further.
Cheers
Matt
cjs2k
Well-known member
Hi Matt. Being the newbie that I am, I have what is probably a stupid question to most people around here. I don't post very often because I try to read through the info here and other places (JLM), but I am stuck on how to wire the rotary switch for the hot rod 1272. I have read as much as I can find on it but I don't get it. Why two decks on the switch? I am using the Alpha from Greg's part list. I talked with a tech here in town and he said to just use a meter. I'm stuck. Also, what type of cap did you use on the output transformer, what voltage? Thanks alot, C.J.
matta
Well-known member
Hey CJ,
No such thing as a stupid question my friend. Your friend is quite correct in that those switches on Greg's list are not numbered and to figure out which step you are on you use a multimeter set to check continuity between the poles and the steps.
The switches don't have an end stop and so you have to make one so that your start and end points are consistent. There was a thread on how to do this somewhere... I just can't find it at the moment.
Once I have found the switch positions with my multimeter I write the numbers down on the switch for easy reference later.
RE how to wire it, info can be found on Greg's Hot Rod PCB hook-up PDF, which can be found here http://members.cox.net/ram3n/HotRod_Hookup.pdf
You need to jumper parts of the 1st deck as noted, so link 7-12 on Deck A.
RE the output cap on the trano, I assume you mean the one on the actual LO1166? That is 0.01uF poly cap, the voltage is irrelevant, but in this case it is 63V, only because you will be hard to find one less than 50V in rating.
I hope that helps, I'll be in Nashvegas in just under a month for 2 months so if you are stuck I can try pop around and help ya out, you just pay for the Starbucks and snacks ;-)
Cheers
Matt
No such thing as a stupid question my friend. Your friend is quite correct in that those switches on Greg's list are not numbered and to figure out which step you are on you use a multimeter set to check continuity between the poles and the steps.
The switches don't have an end stop and so you have to make one so that your start and end points are consistent. There was a thread on how to do this somewhere... I just can't find it at the moment.
Once I have found the switch positions with my multimeter I write the numbers down on the switch for easy reference later.
RE how to wire it, info can be found on Greg's Hot Rod PCB hook-up PDF, which can be found here http://members.cox.net/ram3n/HotRod_Hookup.pdf
You need to jumper parts of the 1st deck as noted, so link 7-12 on Deck A.
RE the output cap on the trano, I assume you mean the one on the actual LO1166? That is 0.01uF poly cap, the voltage is irrelevant, but in this case it is 63V, only because you will be hard to find one less than 50V in rating.
I hope that helps, I'll be in Nashvegas in just under a month for 2 months so if you are stuck I can try pop around and help ya out, you just pay for the Starbucks and snacks ;-)
Cheers
Matt
Matt, your stuff just looks stunning!
Massive respect for the way you're working your way up to Electronics Nirvana!
How much time do you devote to DIY? (not counting the time you lose, waiting for parts to arrive that is ... )
Massive respect for the way you're working your way up to Electronics Nirvana!
How much time do you devote to DIY? (not counting the time you lose, waiting for parts to arrive that is ... )
matta
Well-known member
Hey Tony,
RE how much time I dedicate to DIY, hmm... hard to say.
This particular job was a 'for hire' and took about 60-70 hours in total from start to finish (2 boxes, 8 channels). I basically do this for a living now, well not just tech work but split my time between my career as a musician (www.matt-allison.com), studio work as a producer and engineer and tech work through my company Ashton Audio (www.ashtonaudio.com).
In between all of this I try and fit in time for my own DIY and have managed to build my fair share of goodies over the past 2 years or so.
My BIG plan and biggest DIY project yet will be building a commercial studio for hire, scary and daunting, but exciting in the same breath.
Dub,
In the words of Jerry Maguire... 'SHOW ME THE MONEY', Hah hah! I think next time a tackle a job like this I'll be charging a fair amount more as I really under quoted on it... but my client was very gracious in squaring me away in the end.
I did over double the time I anticipated with all that off board wiring and getting a batch of 'working' cards only to find they were all DOA (and I don't mean discrete op amp) and a few other 'unforeseen' issues.
My client has been showing them off and they are in good company and he just sent me this artist pic of the units racked up.
Sadly guys like my client are few and far between here in South Africa with pro summer being the norm... it is scary what some guys are passing off as pro... I know of one studio charging R1,000 ($120USD) an hour for commercial post work using a 'cheap' Chinese condenser and a Wackie desk. It is very skewed and guys like him are the norm, which is why I hope to raise the bar with my place next year.
Cheers
Matt
Greg
Well-known member
Very saucy !!!
cjs2k
Well-known member
Thanks alot Matt, I've been meaning to spend more quality time with my meter. :wink:
khstudio
Well-known member
Matt,
The other 1272 you built for yourself has the toroidal mounted in the case...
I was wondering how much if any hum your getting from this & at what level of gain???
I'm currently mounting my 1272 in the case & was debating the external tranny but I'd rather just put it in the back corner of the chassis... I'll have a little more room than you did in that Pro-VLA case though.
Thanks,
Kevin
The other 1272 you built for yourself has the toroidal mounted in the case...
I was wondering how much if any hum your getting from this & at what level of gain???
I'm currently mounting my 1272 in the case & was debating the external tranny but I'd rather just put it in the back corner of the chassis... I'll have a little more room than you did in that Pro-VLA case though.
Thanks,
Kevin
matta
Well-known member
Hi Kevin,
Yes, stupidly I had it in the box, it hummed like crazy at max gain (50-60dB's) when loaded with a 150R resistor.
I have since moved the transformer out of the case, infact I mounted it to the rear of the chassis, which prob is still not the best option, but works well. The hum is now BARELY audible above the noise floor of the actual pre now, but no doubt could be better if it was further away form the case.
I did some tests recently and on all my pres that had the power trafo's in the racks, ALL of them them to some degree or another exhibited hum with a source-impedance of 150R resistor at max gain. I've since moved all the power trafo's out of my pre cases and it makes a NIGHT and DAY difference.
I've made it a goal when building pre to always use an eternal power transformer, or PSU, I think there is a reason the big guys like API, Brent Averill, Chandler etc all do it.
Cheers
Matt
Yes, stupidly I had it in the box, it hummed like crazy at max gain (50-60dB's) when loaded with a 150R resistor.
I have since moved the transformer out of the case, infact I mounted it to the rear of the chassis, which prob is still not the best option, but works well. The hum is now BARELY audible above the noise floor of the actual pre now, but no doubt could be better if it was further away form the case.
I did some tests recently and on all my pres that had the power trafo's in the racks, ALL of them them to some degree or another exhibited hum with a source-impedance of 150R resistor at max gain. I've since moved all the power trafo's out of my pre cases and it makes a NIGHT and DAY difference.
I've made it a goal when building pre to always use an eternal power transformer, or PSU, I think there is a reason the big guys like API, Brent Averill, Chandler etc all do it.
Cheers
Matt
What have I been saying for the last zillion?
Good work!
But now you will alwyas have a rats nest of pwr supplies on the carpet.
Me at least!
:thumb:
But yes, there is just no way to get the same results, you would need ten tons of mu.
\
Good work!
But now you will alwyas have a rats nest of pwr supplies on the carpet.
Me at least!
:thumb:
But yes, there is just no way to get the same results, you would need ten tons of mu.
\
