All things G1176 - the new "repost" thread.

[gswan]

4 diodes is the only way to get a bridge. The series resistor for level metering is already in the circuit coming from the metering switch. The GR metering has to be calibrated once the meters are in circuit.

 

[mac]

Well everyone, my baby is born.. There have definitely been times when I didnt think I would make it, but fortunately my methodical approach to this project has paid off. Building two channels, and intentionally not referring to each one during the build has actually been a wise approach. I only had some minor faults to troubleshoot, mainly with the wiring, and one or two bad solder joints, and now that the meters are operating correctly, and I finally tamed the concept of calibration - I can honestly say it sounds really great.

Death to plugins!!!

Thanks to all on here who have guided me...and especially to those on here who make these projects possible / mnats, and mike for the matched fets and Ed's transformers.

I have a video test clip, but not sure how wise it is to put that up on you tube. If anyone wants a sound clip or something let me know.

I think I can finally say that I have now properly started my DIY apprenticeship.
Mac  ;D  ;D  ;D


P.S. I have my Slam switches and input transformer option yet to install, (thanks again Ward).

 

[casrec]

Great Job, Glad to see you got it up and running! ;D

 

[Chrome Heart]

OK I have the Avel Lindberg torroid from HB and the sticker on the side says Blue/Grey to 115v, but the data sheet at Avel says Blue/Violet for 115v. Can someone clear this? Am I missing something?

 

[casrec]

OK I have the Avel Lindberg torroid from HB and the sticker on the side says Blue/Grey to 115v, but the data sheet at Avel says Blue/Violet for 115v. Can someone clear this? Am I missing something?

I had this same problem with this torroidal. It has to be a misprint. Wire in parallel as per the data sheet. Blue/violet and grey/brown. If you wire the other way around it will get very hot and I am sure will pop if left to long which I did not wait to see. They are great heavy duty transformers, but they should really look into this misprint on the unit itself.

Brandon 

 

[Chrome Heart]

OK I have the Avel Lindberg torroid from HB and the sticker on the side says Blue/Grey to 115v, but the data sheet at Avel says Blue/Violet for 115v. Can someone clear this? Am I missing something?

I had this same problem with this torroidal. It has to be a misprint. Wire in parallel as per the data sheet. Blue/violet and grey/brown. If you wire the other way around it will get very hot and I am sure will pop if left to long which I did not wait to see. They are great heavy duty transformers, but they should really look into this misprint on the unit itself.

Brandon  

Wow, thats a pretty serious misprint. Thanks for the heads up Brandon. Maybe it would helpful if the Hairball guys stuck a note in the box. The only reason I checked the data sheet was to make sure I was wiring correctly. There was no paperwork with the torroid.
Ive built three SSL clones and the "double check" became a valuable exercise.
Im assuming the secondaries are correct.

 

[Echo North]

I just got a new batch of power transformers yesterday. 

I'll have a look at them and see if this has been corrected and make any adjustments.

Thanks for the heads up!

Mike

 

[casrec]

Yes the secondaries are correct. And saying all this, these transformers are great and a great price! Good thing you caught it before wiring. I had the luxury of the fabulous smell of hot plastic. Mmmmm, Mmmm . Always look at the Data sheet though. I ordered tons of stuff through mouser and a few items were wrong because I just looked at their description page and not the data sheet. Mouser is a great company though and replaced everything for me free of charge.

 

[mac]

Has anyone experienced changes in the zeroing of the GR metering when using the rotary slam option?

I have wired my Rev J mnats meter boards with a separate two pos two pole toggle as per Gyraf's wiring diagram, but when in GR mode my zeroed meter pegs up to +4 when i switch in the slam. All other ratios on the rotary switch the meter stays nicely zeroed. The unit appears to function correctly in slam mode (compresses at a much higher ratio than when in 1:20) but I am just wondering if others have experienced this metering behaviour?

Mac.

 

[Biasrocks]

Has anyone experienced changes in the zeroing of the GR metering when using the rotary slam option?

... but when in GR mode my zeroed meter pegs up to +4 when i switch in the slam.
Mac.

Hey Mac

This is normal behavior for slam mode.

Mark

 

[mac]

Hey thanks Mark.

Actually, I got an opportunity to A/B my unit today against a current UA reissue 1176, (which I wasnt anticipating - thanks again Angus) and I was really happy with the comparison - thanks to all on here who make this possible!!!

I am interested in the relationship the Attack pot has on the compression circuit however. I used Lin 25K pots for attack in this unit and I noticed a difference in the behaviour between my unit and the "real thing" particularly when fully counterclockwise, and in slam mode.

Can someone help me to understand why the BOM states Lin or Log. Wouldnt this make a difference to the way the signal is presented to the GR circuitry?

Also, the other noticable difference is that often my gain settings when in GR mode make it hard to flick the "bypas" switch without the output jumping up several dB, and making me grab for the faders. Is there a way of pading the bypass so that it permanently reduces output by say 3 or 4 dB? Anyone else tackled this issue?

Mac.

 

[Chrome Heart]

I have wired the mnats 5 position switch for using slam mode and I have a couple questions. Bear with me. I wired both sides of the switch the same, thats what it looks like in the photos on his site. The orientaion of the swith on the board is what Im hoping is right. I have 4 open pins on the pcb under the switch (see photo), is this correct? I know the photos arent great but its the best I can get with my camera. I also included a photo of the top. I just want to make sure Im getting this.

BR

 

[Chrome Heart]

Top

 

[mac]

Hey BR,
If you grab a multi meter before you push it into the board, you will notice that orientation actually shouldnt  matter because the two poles are bridging the same positions even if you rotate the switch 180 degrees.

I have 4 open pins on the pcb under the switch (see photo), is this correct?

not sure I understand what you mean by this..

Mac.

P.S. looks like you have only soldered four pins on each pole so far?? So fifth position is not yet soldered?

 

[Chrome Heart]

In mnats photos it looks like only 4 positions are soldered. Position 5 is bridged to the next pin on the switch. Im not sure if Im seeing it right. mnats only has photos and there is no text to explain. Check the link.
http://mnats.net/1176_slam_mode_rotary.html

 

[mac]

Yes of course, you are correct. fifth pos is not connected to board.

Mac

 

[user 37518]

Ok heres a happy story: Im mixing an entire DVD of a live concert, so theres this chick who whas nervous and couldnt sing a damn note, and the dynamics are aweful she went from barely audible to ear bursting in no time, sometimes like 5 times in the same word. Im doing everything ITB for practicity since i have a tight scheadule, i tried every compressor i had ITB and OTB to try and fix those dynamic changes, and the only one that got the job done was the G1176 in Nuke mode, now it sounds 1000 times better, its still a piece of crap but maaaan now its hearable. Just wanted to share with you guys this happy story, im proud of my baby!

 

[Whoops]

Ok heres a happy story: Im mixing an entire DVD of a live concert, so theres this chick who whas nervous and couldnt sing a damn note, and the dynamics are aweful she went from barely audible to ear bursting in no time, sometimes like 5 times in the same word. Im doing everything ITB for practicity since i have a tight scheadule, i tried every compressor i had ITB and OTB to try and fix those dynamic changes, and the only one that got the job done was the G1176 in Nuke mode, now it sounds 1000 times better, its still a piece of crap but maaaan now its hearable. Just wanted to share with you guys this happy story, im proud of my baby!

Normally in those situations hand drawn volume automation works better than any compressor,
but I'm happy you got your work done using the 1176

 

[user 37518]

Ok heres a happy story: Im mixing an entire DVD of a live concert, so theres this chick who whas nervous and couldnt sing a damn note, and the dynamics are aweful she went from barely audible to ear bursting in no time, sometimes like 5 times in the same word. Im doing everything ITB for practicity since i have a tight scheadule, i tried every compressor i had ITB and OTB to try and fix those dynamic changes, and the only one that got the job done was the G1176 in Nuke mode, now it sounds 1000 times better, its still a piece of crap but maaaan now its hearable. Just wanted to share with you guys this happy story, im proud of my baby!

Normally in those situations hand drawn volume automation works better than any compressor,
but I'm happy you got your work done using the 1176

Hand drawn volume automation of a 2 hour live concert dvd??? i dont think so but thanks for the advice hehehehe, 20 singers btw.... i think now you really get what i meant with "G1176 saved the day!"

 

[mac]

sorry to be bumpy but...

I am interested in the relationship the Attack pot has on the compression circuit however. I used Lin 25K pots for attack in this unit and I noticed a difference in the behaviour between my unit and the "real thing" particularly when fully counterclockwise, and in slam mode.

Can someone help me to understand why the BOM states Lin or Log. Wouldnt this make a difference to the way the signal is presented to the GR circuitry?

Also, the other noticable difference is that often my gain settings when in GR mode make it hard to flick the "bypas" switch without the output jumping up several dB, and making me grab for the faders. Is there a way of pading the bypass so that it permanently reduces output by say 3 or 4 dB? Anyone else tackled this issue?

anyone?
Mac