Mic Bodies

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BTW, I have a milling machine and thinking of purchasing lathe, as well. What kind of body do you want? I will see if I can do it.
 
Here's the drawings I made for my G7 body. I should have got thicker sheet metal so i wouldn't have to stack several cutout discs on the ends of the bar. But I didn't. :?

I don't know for sure which Peluso capsule and mount i'll be getting yet, but i put holes in assuming i got the white plasic base mount (since i doubt i'll be able to afford his $150 capsules).

Once I actually finish the bodies, I'll modify the drawings to reflect what I actually ended up with. This is just a rough draft, and I left things open for adaptation for those that wanted to do them another way (plus i have no experience in metalworking and am learning as i go, and i may find things out that work better after the first time through).

http://us.f1f.yahoofs.com/bc/3f9b73ac_b086/bc/My+Documents/Mic+Body.pdf?bfXx52ABiPjXMfcA

I also would appreciate any comments you guys might have.

Daniel
 
I haven't seen the MXL or Studio projects mics in person but I'm thinking .... if the logo is etched on the surface it could be removed by sanding the entire mic body with a lathe or belt sander. If this is done carefully it looks like "brushed aluminum." It could then be polished if that's desireable. I guess that wouldn't work if the logo is deeply engraved, however.

Anyone know how the logos are applied to those cheaper mics?

I've been wanting to build a mic myself, but I agree that the bargain manufacturer logo is too much trouble to explain to uninformed clients.
 
[quote author="AudioJunkie"]
Once I actually finish the bodies, I'll modify the drawings to reflect what I actually ended up with. This is just a rough draft, and I left things open for adaptation for those that wanted to do them another way (plus i have no experience in metalworking and am learning as i go, and i may find things out that work better after the first time through).

http://us.f1f.yahoofs.com/bc/3f9b73ac_b086/bc/My+Documents/Mic+Body.pdf?bfXx52ABiPjXMfcA

I also would appreciate any comments you guys might have.

Daniel[/quote]

Daniel, the link doesn't work
 
Marik - Those bodies look fantastic! I like the contrast between the copper and chrome.

The MXL mics I have seen just have transfers/decals that should easily be removed with solvent. You could just repaint it.
 
So I talked to the guy I know. He said he might be interested, but I think a rough design would have to be settled upon.
 
Hmmm.. it worked when i tried it before i posted it.. :-(

Hmm.. i guess this Yahoo Briefcase thing isn't going to work after all for hosting files. Anyone have any experience with Yahoo? Or want to host my PDF?

Daniel
 
I'd be inetrested in a straight body type a la 251/c12. I know someone who works AutoCAD daily and probably would be into handling the drawings. I'd be willing to help source the machine shop end too. We would have to decide on a rough shape and some other mechanical details like 1 piece body or 2, connector type (screw on or xlr type), etc...
 
Hello Chaps,

If you could hold on a bit longer :cool: , I should be finishing my mic bodies pretty soon., along with Neumann type Grille, I will post the full details as soon as it is finished. - this all depends on how much time i get to do my thing in work, along with La-2a, SSL clone, G9 etc.

But I shit you not - Its looking well nice !!

Hopefully, perhaps we could incorporate all of the mic ideas at one place,
mic bodies, mic grilles, DIY capsules.....................

Anyway going to sink a few.... it is Friday night afterall !!!
:guinness: :guinness: :guinness: :guinness: :guinness: :guinness: :guinness: :guinness: :guinness: :guinness: :guinness: ................etc


have a good one !!

Steve
 
Okay, here is the file AudioJunkie sent to me:

http://www.studioconsul.net/techtalk/dstover/DStover_Mic_Body.pdf

Sorry I didn't reply to your email, Junkie, but the webmail app I use suddenly decided not to let me open your email. :mad:
 
I would make the grill support thinner under 10mm.

I would change the top plate to a cone shaped piece, tapering to the base of the capsule to help with standing waves.
 

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