MixBuzz1 Build/Support thread

GroupDIY Audio Forum

Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I just finished stuffing mine after a long long long time, from Igor's kit.. now that everything has been placed, there are still a few pads missing so I'd like to ask if that's intentional or not (should I leave them blank or buy the missing pieces). Note that I don't say that Igor forgot something in my kit, I could just as easily misplaced or lost it.

all from main board:
- RV1R / RV1L (10k trims)
- R27R / R27L
- CP11

Also, is it OK to have OPA604 on the quad-vca boards (C8/22pF omitted). And also OK to have OPA604 on IC4L / IC4R position?

Cheers,
B.
 
Ha. Easy questions. The most hard-to answer, aye! Watched Six Shooter?

- RV1R / RV1L (10k trims)
People, do you read boms/schems??? :)
No, I don't want to be a bitch, but this IS your homework.

BOM:
http://ij-audio.com/downloads/mixbuzz1_docs_v2_4.rar
folder: filters
read the bom.txt;
what is the next after:
2  10K  22 TURN TRIM-POT  RV1L, RV1R???
The right answer wins...ahm...whatever))))

- R27R / R27L
Same BOM

Folder: PS
POWER_SUPPLY_BOM.txt
Opens same on Linux, Win, Mac, readable,
                                   
CP5, CP6, CP8, CP9, CP11, CP12, CP13, CP17, CP18, CP21, CP22
All is here.

If these components are missing, feel free to ask, I will ship them.
Or, they should cost about $0.5 at your close to home electronics parts store, a way faster to get them; tell me the cost, will refund.

Also, is it OK to have OPA604 on the quad-vca boards (C8/22pF omitted).
I prefer this kind of questions.
The op-amp on VCA boards has no any deal with sound/coloration, but precision at unity gain.
Answer: Yes. This op-amp has same output current capability as NE5534 (output current is important here)
but way better DC characteristics (less DC offset); this way, more chances to get precision tracking of both channels.
Mean, NE5534 from same batch can have more DC offset range; I had an issue with MixBuzz500 where initial gain of channels was
0.8 db difference due to DC offset of NE5532, fixed with replacing 4-5 chips, measuring the gain w/o compression/makeup
and finding 2 chips with low DC offset to get channels +/-0.05db at unity gain. OPA604 is way more precision thingy.

Same thing BTW with IC1/3/4/5; using LF412/AD712/AD713 in place of detectors op-amps will not add anything to sound, but $20 to price
and NAZI precision to channel's tracking; well, all resistors should be 0.5% as well in this case. I mean, when we are at 20 db of gain reduction at any settings, both channels should have precision tracking (same GR amount). I had a bunch of AD713's from surplus store, IIRC, $20 for 200 chips; this way is more preferable :)

And also OK to have OPA604 on IC4L / IC4R position?
Of course. At your taste, try different op-amps and listen.
My fav is OPA604 (if I was ables to puts here my fet- cascode DOA with DC servo, I was do thats :)

Say, OP275 can be very nice if 4xTHAT2181 used. This opamp loves low feedback resistor's impedances, so,
R3L/R=4k99 with OPA275 is great marriage. But, OP275 out of my interest here (it is dual , not SINGLE as 604/5534, thus will not work)..
Heh! I will be happy to find after some posts, "I put OPA275 in place of ic4 and it smoked".
Nevermind, my bad feel of humor.
In general, precision, fast op-amp will work fine at the place of IC4L/R.
Silver mica caps if OPA604 used at place of C1L/R makes subtle sence, COG is fine with 5534.

Huh. Came home tired, but in perfect mood, after I finished my long work day in Tel Aviv, we did some listening tests
in studio with new version of Albatross pre-amp. It worked! Hurray! But, fastest way from T-A to Haifa takes hour at least,
usually, closer to hour and half..and I cannot sleep when moving :)
Now, kill me, tired like sh*t and needs 5 hours to sleps.
 
Igor said:
evil: any news? I impatiently waiting about a week. Curiosity, aye!

Sorry Igor but I'm in the middle of a project and the mixbuzz is stick on the master buss !!! It's a too fucking good compressor to let it go right now (hopefully it works even with my DC problem). As soon as I can unplugged it, I will do tests.
While you're around, ground question : here's what I did in my built, let me know if it's ok !

pin1 of all XLRs connected to the main board (unlike your builds)
main board with metal standoffs, connected to case
PSU w/ metal standoffs, connected to case except the center hole (like you suggested me)
case connected to earth by IEC

The resistance measure you suggested is between pin1 of XLRs and PSU board center hole, right ? Is it the same w/ main board center hole ? Should it be EXACTLY 0R ?

Thanks for being so involved in my debugging process ! ;)

Ben
 
I think, somehow PIN1 of XLR is not connected to compressor's ground. This may be an issue.
Yep, I liked the sound of this compressor too, and one of cool applications is use it on drum bus, squash, and mix with clean.
 
I haven't done this in a while, so just for my sake of sanity, I would appreciate a quick reply on this: say you have a power transformer with two 18V secondaries, the idea is to connect both 0V to CT and each of the 18V taps goes to its own ~18V hole. The PS PCB has a ground hole in the center which I should distribute to the star ground along with the grounds from XLRs and ground from center of main PCB?

Does that sound right?

EDIT: transformer wiring is OK. I get the correct volts and I'm using the 12V to light my on/off EAO switch (spec'd 24V, 12V gives nice even glow).

Now I'm confused with the ribbon cables, this is my first time using IDCs, so yeah :( re-reading the thread and inspecting pictures of working builds is helping a lot. Thanks guys :)
 
I have a weird problem
at this point instead of-12v I have 0 volts ...
when I turn on the compressor I have all the led (Meter) on....
could you help me?
thanks
 

Attachments

  • Mixbuzz -12v.jpg
    Mixbuzz -12v.jpg
    16.8 KB · Views: 22
Some pages back igor explained that -12V is actually 0V because this design evolved from a digitally controlled one that had a different power supply.

Maybe you swapped 0V and 12V to the LED meter board? I'm about to wire this right now and it's not really certain which way it is (but from X1-1 marker in schemo it seems like the right one is """-12V""" (therefore 0V) and the left one is +12V.
 
No idea how to help, but.. what about the meter toggle? Does it do anything? Are you sure you got the IDC connectors right? ..

EDIT:

Ok, wired everything up, now it's debugging land.. I sincerely hope I goofed up my XLR ins, because mine only passes -65dB attenuated signal with a bit of noise thrown in for good measure. Nothing registers on meters. Threshold has no effect, only makeup.
 
Hm hm. This is the scope of leg 6 of the input receiver chip (INA137PA as supplied by Igor). The original signal (received on leg 3) is almost 8Vpp 440hz sine. The frequency stays ok, but the shape is messed up and it's now around 1.6Vpp. Dead chip? That's left channel. Right channel simply has nothing on chip leg 3.. wtf.

Replacing left and right receivers doesn't change anything (I hoped left was just dead, but the right one does the same).
 

Attachments

  • mb_debug_input.jpg
    mb_debug_input.jpg
    451.3 KB · Views: 6
"Threshold has no effect, only makeup."

Also I have the same problem
Audio pass well but Threshold has no effect, only makeup....
???
 
I turned the whole thing on its head and touched up / reflowed some unhappy solder pads. I did mixbuzz with new solder that I bought at a local store because I took a home leave to finish my projects and I couldn't wait for new shipment from iSolder. Anyway, have to get a hang of this one, the previous one flowed better on the other side of the PCB, this one doesn't want to.

Anyways, now I get signal on one channel that is properly received and compressed. Attack, release, sidechain models, threshold and makeup all work.

Issues:

-- Mix works like a LPF (not on sidechain, on audio) - I have to check wiring. The more "wet" I go, the lower the lowpass frq or maybe it's blending with a severely LPF'd signal and so it "sounds like" it's changing frq.
-- turbo doesn't light up the LED
-- LED meter doesn't work (no LEDs light up, ever, at any mode). Is my LED meter 12V hooked up properly? It should go to the header on top right of the PCB with 12V on the left and "-12V" (actually 0V) to the right?

 
The other channel is still doing the triangular noisy small signal thing as referenced in previous posts. I removed the receiver chip and linked +In to Out but this signal degradation persists. The solder pads look OK now, but I'll have a go through all component orientation to see if that's the problem. Maybe some lytic is wrongly oriented?

EDIT: lytic C35R was oriented wrong, reoriented but nothing changed.

EDIT: VCA on not working channel needed one of the pins reflowed on its sub-PCB. Now it works!

Now to get some meter action.. any ideas on how I should approach debugging it??

EDIT: meter LEDs inserted wrong. Now all are on regardless of selected mode or signal level.
 
Hello
I need your help
I finished the mix Buzz
and everything works
only problem is with LED METER
all remain always on, Q1 and Q2 both are hot
I double checked all connections but nothing wrong
What can it be?
Thanks
 
+1

Identical here. Ok, I have to sort out the turbo LED and every now and then the left signal goes quieter than the other and distorts, but I'll figure that out I think...

The LED meter is more "no idea what to do"

ilfungo said:
Hello
I need your help
I finished the mix Buzz
and everything works
only problem is with LED METER
all remain always on, Q1 and Q2 both are hot
I double checked all connections but nothing wrong
What can it be?
Thanks
 
about meter:

-check wich kind of transistors you have in Q1 e Q2 in the led_front_pcb (in some kits there are 2N4403 wich are WRONG!!!)
it should be 2N3904 or 2N4401 or PN2222 or 2N2222

-Check the OFFSETL, OFFSETR trimpots wipers (in the METER DRIVER pcb) are connected to GND.
If we look to meter driver board and 10-pin connector is at bottom, central pins of these trimpots should be connected to bottom pins.
After, take care that the resistance of the trimpot is setted to the highest value (no offset), if you set it to "0" ohm you burn the power supply (it happened to me...).

 
Mine read 2n3904 (I bought them especially so that they would be correct and I wouldn't fry any IC)

I've checked the 10-pin connector, it seems to connect pin1 to pin1 etc.. as on PCB overlay pictures from documentation.

Between wiper and bottom pin (toward 10pin) I have rising resistance (charging a cap?) so I can't tell if it's really connected, but it seems PCB traces are in place to do just that. Also don't know how to set the max resistance, is that towards ccw or cw (looking with 10pin at the bottom but from the top now)?

EDIT: 4011 oscillating on pin 10 and 11 as supposed to, I think. When I probe 4016 pins 9 and 10, only a few LEDs light up, and the scope shows some DC in the 0.6V range.

Question: Do I need to rotate 2n3904??
 
You have to connect the wiper (central pin) with the bottom pin... SHORTCUT
After that set the trimpot to maximum value (CW I think... anyway check with a ohmeter that the resistance between the shortcutted legs and the upper pin increase till maximum level;)
 
Thank you all for the help
Now the meter starts running ....
"Connect the wiper (central pin) with the bottom pin" is only for calibration or forever?
thanks
 
Back
Top