Neve 1290 build completed!!

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Another question while I'm here =) :

I'm building a 4-channel EZ1290 2U rack and was wondering if I can use a single 100VA toroid hooked up to two PSUs  - one being FiveFish PSU2448 driving 2 boards + phantom for all four channels, the other being Igor's 33609 PSU driving the remaining two boards. Can I do that? That way each PSU will see approximately 1A load and the power trafo won't be maxed out either.

Thoughts and suggestions?
 
Hi. I'm a bit of a newbie with all of this electronics stuff. Only built a couple of small things but I bought 8 boards and have pretty much all the parts to get started (ip/op transformers, JLM ACDC kits and go between, components, enclosures). I'm going to build four 2 ch. pairs each with their own external PSU. I was wondering if anyone more experienced has any advice/precautions/ideas, etc. to post. Is there anything in particular that I should consider before building? I'm getting the impression that this is a relatively simple project (it seems that people are actually getting these things to work!). What are the most common problems? Thanks for listening!
 
danjpiscina said:
Hi. I'm a bit of a newbie with all of this electronics stuff. Only built a couple of small things but I bought 8 boards and have pretty much all the parts to get started (ip/op transformers, JLM ACDC kits and go between, components, enclosures). I'm going to build four 2 ch. pairs each with their own external PSU. I was wondering if anyone more experienced has any advice/precautions/ideas, etc. to post. Is there anything in particular that I should consider before building? I'm getting the impression that this is a relatively simple project (it seems that people are actually getting these things to work!). What are the most common problems? Thanks for listening!

Hi,
the best advise I can give is to read all the 15 pages of this thread (and also from the other Madriaanse 1290 related thread with the 8 channel unit) and compile a Best Off of the most relevant information into a DOC file,  that will give you a pretty good base foundation to complete this project.

wish you the best
 
Go slow. Double tripple check every part. Don't trust that Digikey has put the right part in the right bag. Start with the power supply and test it with a load (search here for that). Start the project with a new tinned tip for your iron.

Be safe. Have respect for electricity. Don't plug anything in until you see that everything is where it is supposed to. Even still, keep an ABC fire extinguisher close by. When you are ready, plug into a power strip with the strips power switch off. Check everything again, then carefully turn on the switch being ready to turn it off if you see smoke. 

Have fun. Find your soldering zen place. Learn. Don't just blindly solder. Ask questions (after exhaustively searching here). If you don't understand a post you read here, read it anyway. Absorb what you can and google the rest. There are concepts that will only make sense after you've done one. Don't get frustrated if it doesn't work tight off the bat. Retrace your steps. Take deep breaths. First projects can be emotional. Enjoy it. 
 
promixe said:
Another question while I'm here =) :

I'm building a 4-channel EZ1290 2U rack and was wondering if I can use a single 100VA toroid hooked up to two PSUs  - one being FiveFish PSU2448 driving 2 boards + phantom for all four channels, the other being Igor's 33609 PSU driving the remaining two boards. Can I do that? That way each PSU will see approximately 1A load and the power trafo won't be maxed out either.

Thoughts and suggestions?
100VA might be overkill. Each channel should need about 6VA = 24V * 0.25A (max... IIRC the 1073 was originally spec'ed as 120mA per channel, but you want to budget a bit more).  So I think a 50VA would be more than fine, and you should be able to use one PSU board for all 4 channels..
 
Hi mata_haze; email sent :)

Hi Dan,

Here are some pointers for a successful build:
1) follow the BOM and assembly guide to a "T"; most problems come from people subbing other parts, or trying to do things differently. Everything in those two documents is important and is put in there for a reason.
2) if you're not sure about something, just ask on the forum. There are no dumb questions... ok, lie, there are, but it's not a crime to ask them. :)
3) test and/or adjust PSU voltages before connecting to EZ1290. Heatsink the LM317's sufficiently, and make sure the heatsinks aren't shorted to the case.
4) take your time and double, triple check each part value and placement; make sure caps are oriented correctly etc.
5) make sure you use conductive (metal) standoffs to mount 2N3055 and use metal screws.

That's about it; it's really a pretty straightforward build if you follow the above.

Whoops, I really like your "Best Of" document (FAQ) idea. Do you have this? I'd like to post it online if you do.

I like to to calculate 12VA (500mA) per channel which is overkill by quite a margin; I am a fan of severely overspec'ing PSU's.

Best,

M.
 
just to say, I also found my EZ1290 PCBs in my post box when I got back yesterday :)
looking forward to building these once some other projects are off the desk,
and just want to say "ME TOO" on the best-off-FAQ idea!
 
Hi Martin,
I have a doc file, but I only compiled the info I that I needed and not all the usefull info.
I'm sure another person would compile it differently.

I can send it to you anyway.

thanks
 
Great! Thanks to Whoops, madriaanse, and mushy for all the info/advice. I'm feeling pretty confident about it. I'll be reading a ton of stuff before I dig in, and based on my past experiences, I recommend that to any newcomer! The hardest part for me is plugging it in for the first time (after months of intensive labour) and finding out it doesn't work. It's such a downer. I lose inspiration! This time is different though, because instead of double checking everything, I'll quadruple check!

More people please post pictures! It's useful for everyone to get an idea of all the possible approaches to this project.

All the best,

Dan.
 
Hi there....


I was just dubitative, when i was seeing you all here talking about this board and its sound...  so I just passed the step and asked to Martin one board... just to test...  It's really not difficult to do (just some technical words to catch when you are french and not so at ease with electronics). And after few tests... I compared it to several preamps...  like ADL600, Avalon VT737, Universal audio preamps and ISA430 (EQ off)... I'm still comparing that ez1290 with any good preamp i find...

I was totally stunned hearing that board...  :eek: sound is far from Avalon Preamp.. for me it's really bigger, warmer..
I prefer it to ADL600 too. Even it sounds really close at first sight, after thorough tests...  it's still sounding warmer and more precise in low frequences...

Really better than Universal audio and it doesn't have to be ashamed in front to the ISA430

My only problem was about output (or amplification) level.. cause at lowest amplification level, a bass drum with audio technica mic was nearly saturating the input of protools HD..  So i will add a simple JLM Go Betweens (or maybe 2 switchs) to add -20dB pad and phase invert...  and let's go...

Anyway ... I already asked for 15 boards more to Martin, to complete 2 great looking and sounding 8-racks like the one he made...

only one sentence to say ...  thx to martin for those boards  ;D !!

Sylvain
 
so its alright to use the five fish studio's 2448mk2 PSU?

another question is-

does the pcb come with an onboard voltage regulator?

 
DIYnoob! said:
so its alright to use the five fish studio's 2448mk2 PSU?

another question is-

does the pcb come with an onboard voltage regulator?

EZ1290 no, Look at the Five fish 2448 info, but I think the FFkit has it all..
 
Does anyone know what the final verdict was on the pin configuration using a 31267 as in the input transformer? I was just going to wire it backwards (because that's what my Chandler LTD-1's do for using 31267's for mic ins), so that the wiring is:

XLR Pin 1 > 31267 Pin 6
XLR Pin 2 > 31267 Pin 7
XLR Pin 3 > 31267 Pin 10

31267 Pin 2 > "7" on the PCB
31267 Pin 5 > "10" on the PCB

Jumper between Pin 3 & 4
Jumper between Pin 8 & 9
Jumper between Pin 6 & 10

Is this correct or am I totally off base here?

Thanks!!
 
Hi Ryan,

You can do the backwards 31267; wiring is shown here: http://www.jlmaudio.com/Neve%20transformer%20info.htm

But why not go for VTB9045/10468? It's the real deal and how Neve designed it.

M.
 
Someone gave me the 31267's so I thought that I'd use them. As I mentioned, I have a pair of Chandler LTD-1's that use them as mic ins and they sound fantastic. I double checked and the Chandler 31267's are wired:

Pin 2 & 5 > Out (can't tell exactly where to and didn't have my meter handy), Pin 5 is also looks like it's doubled up with XLR Pin 1, Pin 7 > XLR Pin 2, Pin 10 > XLR Pin 3, Pin 6 > Grounded to the corner transformer screw, then there are 3 jumpers: 9 > 10, 7 > 8, 3 > 4 

However, according to the JLM site - assuming that I'm reading it correctly - you use Pins 7 & 9 or 8 & 10 on the 31267 to run to XLR pins 2 & 3, and leave the other two 31267 pins that you don't use disconnected. Then, 31267 Pin 3 goes to "7" on the PCB, and 5 goes to "SHLD/10" on the PCB.

Where does the XLR Pin 1 go to? Should I use any of the jumpers?




madriaanse said:
Hi Ryan,

You can do the backwards 31267; wiring is shown here: http://www.jlmaudio.com/Neve%20transformer%20info.htm

But why not go for VTB9045/10468? It's the real deal and how Neve designed it.

M.
 
Hi. Does anyone have any info/advice/problems, etc. using the JLM AC/DC (with 22V 2.272A transformer) and Go Between with these 1290s. I got all the parts to build 4 pairs and want to get started but don't want to start off on the wrong foot! If anyone's had problems, it would be great if you could post them, and save others some trouble! Thanks so much.

Dan P.
 
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