Parts I use in microphones

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Gus

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I get PMed about parts I use.

I like to use Wire Wrap wire for the capsule to circuit connection if the capsule does not have wires attached, if attached I use what the capsule came with. I use good PVC or Teflon I don't get hung up on wire.

What I mean by good is the PVC is fully cured. In the past I have come across PVC wire that "dry rotted" this is on the high side AC sensor of my saturn and wire that the C attacked the Cu the wire turns black or green and goes bad inside the PVC.

I like to use wire wrap for my solid state builds. I like to star ground using perf board for solid state and tube microphone builds.

I believe Zebra uses the standoffs form some of the china microphones for high Z connections. I like to use the legs of the devices and wire the High Z in the air. For something like the G7 build I would inlarge the grid hole on the PCB so the tube socket pin does not touch and wire from the pin. I first clean with soap and water tube sockets I like to use sunlite dish soap it seems to have a good surfactant so it leaves less behind when rised off. I will dry the socket and then drop it in some alcohol and let it dry then use it. You need to be careful with touching anything in the High Z part of the circuit.


I even dip the ends of the Vacuum tube and use a Qtip on the pins and let it dry to hopefully remove any finger oils.

Zebra any good ways to clean that would be better than this.

I use only good transformers in a microphone I believe you heard more of the imperfections of the parts used because it is often the first step in the recording circuits

The term Qtip and sunlite dishsoap might not mean anything to people outside the USA.
 
Good idea for a thread!

I have some teflon 'spaghetti' sleeving that I use around wires in my microphones - very useful for covering the legs on things like 5840 submini tubes.

Actually I am considering going over to soldering the whole tube even for EF86s etc, although this has obvious drawbacks so I will test the tube before doing it.

For capacitors I am currently using polystyrene/metal foil rolled caps where possible - certainly for the high Z end. This decision comes from both recommendations, the fact that you see them in older neumann mics, and my own ears.

Sometime I have used the teflon mounting posts as Gus states above, and I have also built some in the air. One thing worth considering is where the mic will get used. I had a problem with one of my tube mics - something was moving slightly and the signal was crapping out when the mic got bounced or shaken. Using the mounting posts to tie everything down fixed this. If you're recording well behaved musicians this may not be a problem, but if you're recording keith moon or john lydon then bouncability is an issue!

Another approach that I have tried is to make a frame from thick wire which acts as the 'star' ground, and hang alll the components off the frame. This works well and is actually quite robust:

TwinCFmic2.JPG



As I've pointed out before, there are useful bits in some of the mics people buy for modification. 1 gig resistors and the teflon standoff/mounting posts spring to mind. The MXL mics have 2SK170's in them so if you're modding them make sure you salvage this too.

MXLgig.JPG



I haven't heard of wire-wrap-wire. Is it a brand or a type?

We have Q-tips here - usually called 'cotton buds', but not the sunlite dish soap (although it sounds like a unilever product - they have a huge factory at Port Sunlight).

For grease removal I would try isopropanol or even methanol if you can get hold of it in a pure form.

:thumb:
 
[quote author="zebra50"]

I haven't heard of wire-wrap-wire. Is it a brand or a type?
[/quote]
As 'wire-wrap' it is a type. You can buy it from RS cheaply as 'Kynar' - 30swg black 50m £3-70 pt no. 209-4849, or very expensively as 'Tefzel', and they also make a slightly heavier guage (26swg), and they will sell you 100yds of it for only £25.92! (354-076 if you are curious)

You don't have to have black - there are the usual range of colours.

It's all part of a prototyping system that's becoming rapidly obsolete, although I think that the wire will be around for ever, as it's excellent for putting wiring mods on PCBs because it's small, insulated, solderable without run-back, and can be stuck down with conformal coating. It's the saving grace of cock-ups...

And it's also a good way to put links on stripboard constructions - much easier than using cut-off component leads!
 
Thanks for the tip! I hate buying wire only to find that the insulation melts when you solder, so this sounds ideal.
 
Hi Gus,

I'm starting to solder my G7 together, but I have some things that I don't understand.

[quote author="Gus"]
I like to use the legs of the devices and wire the High Z in the air. For something like the G7 build I would inlarge the grid hole on the PCB so the tube socket pin does not touch and wire from the pin.
[/quote]

I don't fully understand what you mean here, are there pictures of this method somewhere online ?

[quote author="Gus"]
You need to be careful with touching anything in the High Z part of the circuit.[/quote]

Which parts are high Z ? Where does the High Z part of the circuit stop ?

[quote author="Gus"]
I even dip the ends of the Vacuum tube and use a Qtip on the pins and let it dry to hopefully remove any finger oils.[/quote]

What's a Qtip ?


I'm sorry if my questions have been answered before somewhere else .
 
Qtip are cotton ball(s) on the end of a paper stick often used to clean the outer part of ones ears

High Z parts are the grid or gate and the capsule or any parts that "touch" the parts like the pad circuit etc. If you use a socket the plastic etc can leak charge away from the grid causing noise and a loss of lows moisture in the air makes this worse.

Note one end of the grid to ground R is grounded the other is the one you want in the air.

I use Sunlite because it seems to have less additives that are hard to wash away. Sunlite is a liguid soap used to wash plates, forks, spoons etc.

Finger oils and junk on you hand are conductive and at about 100 meg or greater can cause problems they are an unknown resistance that changes with moisture and can cause noise, crackles loss of lows etc.
 
As I've pointed out before, there are useful bits in some of the mics people buy for modification. 1 gig resistors and the teflon standoff/mounting posts spring to mind. The MXL mics have 2SK170's in them so if you're modding them make sure you salvage this too.

Rats!! Someday I will pay attention.

:mad:
 
I use the "cotton swabs" too, but I get 99% alcohol "rubbing alcohol" from the drugstore. Most rubbing alcohol is only 70% alcohol, 30 water.

For the hi-Z bits I clean with alcohol and then paint with "conformance coating" or even just clear spray lacquer, again using a Q-tip. The coating blocks moisture. Definitely a good thing on vocal mics.
 
Just a word to be careful with grades of alcohol - here in the UK they put things in to stop tramps drinking it - you can see the residue when it evaporates & would certainly not be good for mics. The pure stuff is more expensive because it carries duty! I'm sure this varies in different parts of the world, but do read the contents list to make sure.
 
Regarding grades of alcohol-
Just a word to be careful with grades of alcohol - here in the UK they put things in to stop tramps drinking it - you can see the residue when it evaporates & would certainly not be good for mics
Yes, here in the US most "rubbing alcohol" has a substance called witch hazel that renders it un-drinkable. While this is fine for skin, it does leave a residue on things.
 
Yes it was a good system

If wrapped right the edges of the pins would cold weld to the silver plated coppper wire giving a gas tight connection. The pins would often look bad with the black oxide but the connection was good IIRC I think a good connection was good for 30 years. I worked on computers and systems that were all wired wrapped in the past.
 
So would it be better to use vodka for cleaning rather than rubbing alcohol to avoid the witchhazel smear left over? Or does vodka have its own impurities that are bad for electronics? Everclear maybe?
 
[quote author="kato"]Or does vodka have its own impurities that are bad for electronics?[/quote]

sugar...

spill some on your hand and see if it gets sticky...

dave
 
denatured alcohol...


lacquer thinner maybe? lacquer thinner evaporates more completely and without trace than anything I've ever seen... I've heard it's the arsonists tool of choice :)

plus, it'll take anything off of anything.

downsides, it's pretty damn flammable, and probably will give you cancer. But I've had enough of it on me. Hell, I used to spray it on myself when i was cleaning paint guns to get the paint off my hands. Never was too bright, I admit ;)
 

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