SM Pro PR8 Mic Preamps

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[quote author="clintrubber"]Sorry for repeating myself, but anyone seen these available in Europe ?
[/quote]

Sure:

http://www.netzmarkt.de/thomann/thoiw2_artikel-149047.html

http://www.smproaudio.nl/ (Dead link?)

/Preben Friis
 
Hi All!

Glad you guys like the "correct schematic". :oops: Wonder if we could get the first post with the messed up schemo deleted?? Thanks a bunch for posting my schemo ANDY!

ClintRubba' (Peter): Send them an email and ask where you can buy!! I'm sure they'll be happy to give you an answer. I'll get the internal pics as soon as I can, though I'm going on vacation this week, I wanted to get the Ref Designators on the pics so that the schemo will mean something! There is about a 3cm gap between the input PCB and the output/power supply PCB, but why do you want to replace the PCB? The basic topology is not bad at all. If you want the gain control as shown in the link by sismofyt, you could easily move the wires for the pot from their location and sub for R19. Then remove the 4558, stuff in some sockets and apply yer favorite opamp!!

Peter and Dave: I'm not much on 4558 either, but did you look at the THD curves? It ain't that bad! But I will measure one of the channels in my other unit with OPA2134 just for your curiosity! :green: The "promised" 4580s aren't there and they have promised in an email that they would change the manual...though that hasn't been done yet, to my knowledge. They are aware that I posted this schemo here...I asked for permission to do so first.

Owel: I know you guys aren't "busting" me for real. I'm just doing my feigned puppy cry 'cause I didn't get the usual warm TT/GrpDIY welcome! :cry: :wink: Na, don't throw the board away! You can adapt it to be pretty dang close to the Green Pre, if you like! Personally, I prefer this balanced output topology over the one in the Green Pre and the others, though I'd like to change the connection on R10 and 12 to the other side of R14 and 13, respectively.

To Everyone: SO! The "question for the day" is: Which 3 caps are killing the freq response? I'm curious to see if you guys will begin your attack where I did?

Peace!
Charlie
 
Hi,

Thanks Charlie for the various info.

And thanks Preben for the link, so indeed possible to buy it in Europe.

Hmm, but for EU239 while in the US they go/went for US$99...

I'd then perhaps better pay a little more for the Beh. ADA8000,
get Premium Mic Preamplifiers right away :wink: , then hack the outputs
of the mics to become available externally without
the A/D&D/A and finally get all the digital stuff thrown in as well:

ULTRAGAIN PRO-8 DIGITAL ADA8000
High-End 8-Channel A/D & D/A Converter with Premium Mic Preamplifiers
and ADAT® Interface

EU284 (MSRP @ NL)


About those mystery caps, you removed/decreased the BW-limiting caps
and/or the caps at the input ?
They're there of course for a reason, did you remove/decrease them ?

About those AP-plots: nice, thanks. You were talking about suggestions for further measurements, how about a THD vs freq ?

Thanks,

Peter
 
Something I would do. And IIRC Keith posted at the old TT SSL did. Make the Al electros NP by placing two back to back at X2 the cap value now used Bias the center + or - via a 1meg or greater resistor.

I first did this about 1980 in a passive eq phono preamp I built. I learned about this from the Jung Marsh articles in Audio and TAA.

I think the "BAD" sound due to electros is mostly due to not being used correctly. Al caps need a voltage to keep the oxide layer in good shape and also have a diode type effect that shows up at no voltage between plates. Tants like to burn when the voltage is backwards and they stink!

IIRC Keith posted about Neve designs having an offset to help the caps. Mr Neve is a smart person IMO.
 
Peter I would call them about that price, it seems like they would drop the price not just in the US but everywhere. On the ADA8000, I'd rather not give any money to Behr, just on general principles. Besides, we would modify it anyway and I doubt that the A/D and D/A is all that good. btw, that piece has XLR outs on each channel already so you wouldn't have to hack it. :cool: Phantom is GLOBAL on that thing and I don't like that at all! Your guess is C16/17/18? The answer is...no, keep reading. Good guess, though! I think this was one of the first I considered. THD vs Freq graph is no problem, please let me know what input level and gain setting you suggest, or if you think 33mV input/+4dBu output is acceptable. I'll do this for the OPA2134 channel as well this time. :green:

Gus(You are my DIY mic hero!): I think we could do with some cap biasing, or we could replace them with some decent Nichicon or Panasonics too! There are a few caps we could probably eliminate as well, like maybe C10 and C5, and if we had good OAs with low offset, maybe even C1 and C2 if we are brave! You could at least bypass all the electros with 0.1uF film caps for nicer high freq response/THD. Before I got into PA and then recording, I started my DIY in modding CD players according to the POOGE articles in TAA!! That stuff ROCKS! I learned a lot about the different OAs from different manufs through that experience.

Owel: (Are you in Nashville, btw?) The value of C9 and C10 would only restrict the LF, I think, not HF. I have been taught that you would want to leave C8 and C9 in place to keep DC off of the pot as a general rule. Again, I think C5 and 10 could go bye-bye, I'll have to try this sometime.

Do you guys think this is a fun game? Here's a hint...think about the feedback paths... :wink:

Peace!
Charlie
 
Close... I'm actually in Brentwood TN, just 20 minutes from Nashville.

Do you find the values in R19, and R28 weird... they're not symmetrical.
Also, bridged together by C100. What is the purpose of this "bridge" ?

Also, don't you think C17 and C18 will be shunting HF down to ground?

Can R27 be moved after U2B? That way, only one cap can be used in that area (instead of C8 and C9 in series)
 
Charlie
Thanks for this;
May be a cheap sub for an "octipre"
I can throw it away when my octipre's arrive.

OK group help me out a little.
I am looking for rough gain number here.
PRR please resist we do not need a Thesis yet!

Where the heck is the gain?
The diff amp (transistors have X db)
They have a 4.8K diff load down to .070Hz (470uF)
Which will reduce the open loop gain.
U2A is set up for unity
U2B is set up for a gain of 50 (34dB)
U1A,B is setup for unity

I may have missed some but I am at a loss. (HaHa)
The input stage may have more gain than I think.
But too much gain the unit will clip with drums.


Charlie thanks for this!
C16,C17,C18 do not have units of measure. We know it is pF
The next time you touch that schematic you may want to add that to the list.
 
Owel: I'll be headed your way later this week. We are going to visit my mom who lives in Madison. I was born and raised in Nashvegas...:grin:

R19/R28/C100 give the gain in the first stage...I am trying to remember how to calc from the values...it has been a couple of years sice I have looked at my discrete electronics stuff (use it or lose it!) I tend to agree with Peter's guess that they might have intended for R19 to actually be a pot. The goal here, I'm told, was to build 8 pre's for cheep! This is very similar to the arrangement in the schemo cited by sismofyt and the Peter C's "Green Pre" (have you guys gone to review this yet?). Also check the schemo on CJ's website for the "Valley People Mic Pre". C100 make this an "AC only" path, if you catch the drift. PRR could explain this in more detail, I'm sure. Or read Design Note 109 at the THAT Corp website. :thumb:

R28 would merely set the min gain, I think... C17/18 definitely shunt HF...but it's "VHF" as in "RF", dude!

Since the gain of U2B is -50 as adrianh has correctly figured, putting the pot between C5 and C10 might actually allow us to eliminate some caps and reduce the noise on the output a bit...seems I might be missing something at the moment though I'm not sure what :?: btw, the original schematic I saw does not show the second cap of the pair C8/C9. I double-checked the polarities this time, suspecting that they might have been turned "- to -" for a bipolar arrangement...not so!

adrianh: I couldn't afford the OctoPre...that's why I bought these! But I had the thought to modify one of these eventually with some mic xformers and 5532s to make the ISA110-style pre's. Since the rear PCB has just the balanced output drivers, you could etch a new PCB for the ISA110 times 8 with 1538xl's and patch them into the output drivers. Then of course, change the regulators to maybe 7818 and 7918 for a little more headroom and tada!! Whattaya think? Course that's gona be about $400 in iron...

The diff amp has gain, I think! +4dBu = 1.228 Vrms...I had an input of 33mV going into the pre for the tests, so thats a gain of 37.2. This would be the line on the Gain Range graph that's at "+0". Then full gain is +40dBu..can you figure out the gain from there and then go backward? I'll see if I can figure out a formula for the diff ckt gain later. Don't skip the losss caused by R24...Don't understand why that's there?

Nice pun! I have used my unit to record drums (fully modded) but I didn't detect any clipping. C16/17/18 are labelled according to my habits at work, sorry if this causes confusion for anyone. We frequently communicate those values with just the numbers printed on the part with a letter afterward to indicate type (M = mylar C = ceramic etc.) Might not be proper, but saves a lot of time moving decimal points about! I think, those would be 2200pF, but its early for my brain yet.

Still looking for the answer! :grin:

Peace!
Charlie
 
Hi,

Talking about hacking the Behr. ADA8000, it's about the internal wiring.
As I understood from the SoundOnSound-review, the analog outputs from the mic-pre's are not directly available on the XLR-outs. You have to go A to D and D to A again to get the mic-pre outputs. A bit lame imho; a few switches will have added more uses for this box. Perhaps they release some variations or updates of this box.


About removing caps, those at the input are obviously to keep radio-stuff out and those across the opamps to keep things more stable, but there's always some margin, so lowering values might go well for a while. But might turn up surprises if environments change.


About an AP-plot of THD vs freq, the levels you mentioned will be fine. I'm mainly interested if distortion would rise for the higher frequencies. A higher gain setting will more likely reveal this, so a higher gain setting & lower input signal might be worse than the hotter signal and less gain (if at all for such a circuit, but as you''ll know it certainly can be for (power)output stages.)

But I just realized there's actually no gainsetting in this circuit, it's a volume control and no feedback paths are changed. I guess then that any settings&levels below clipping will about do.


Later,

Peter
 
Clintrubber is the Winner!

Remove C13/14/15 and you are good to go! You could reduce these values to about 10pF each and I think you'd be protected against oscillation, but with the "slow-motion" 4558s (slew rate =1!), I'd not expect any problems otherwise. Btw, NJM2068 is my fav OA from JRC. It has lower noise and slightly faster slew than the 4580.

In my unit that is fitted with OPA2134, I may be having a small noise problem on one channel that this would probably resolve, now that I think about it... But then again, it only seems to occur if there is nothing plugged into that particular channel.:idea:

I believe you are correct in assuming that changing the "gain" setting will have no effect on the freq response or THD vs freq plots. I got back from vacation just a day or so ago (Nashville is a fun place to visit :grin:, but the traffic and road construction REEK!:evil: ) and I'm trying to get caught up at work, then I'll do some more measuring on this as well as posting some "gear porn".

Peace!
 
Great Thanks!!!

I just bought a unit myself because I need something cheap, but if I can upgrade it I will do that.

So exept for the capacitor removal, what op amps do you recommend using. Would normal TL072 be any better?

Robert
 
>Nashville is a fun place to visit , but the traffic and road construction REEK!

East and West of Nashville is bad. Never ending construction because of the never ending supply of road construction budget. Use it, or lose it as they say.

Going down south of Nashville City is better (and nicer) :)


So do we have a final version of this schematic?
 
owel:
I'm happy living here in the "Mid-Coast" in the wonderful metropolis of Stillwater (now maybe you guys will get the joke in my profile? I'm poking fun at the rap thing: E Coast vs W Coast, I'm "Mid-Coast"), we have "Rush Moment" instead of "Rush Hour". I know that Brentwood/Franklin is slightly slower-paced, though. I lived in E N'ville and Madison for 25 yrs so I have had enough traffic and country music to last me a lifetime. I do miss the restaurants in N'ville... :sad:

The schemo dated 6/13/04 is my final answer...it doesn't show the peak LED or the Phantom Pwr. But you still need a pic showing my "reference designators" for the parts. I'll try to get that asap.

robomatique:
Until you get theose caps out, nothing will work any better. The circuit values are set up for the 4558 which is a BJT-input OA, I try to just keep the same sort of thing when modding and since the 072 is FET-input, I'd avoid that. I liked the results I got with the BB OPA2134. They are about USD$2.50 each, but since I can't see where you are I don't know if that helps you... :?: OP275 might work well also, but I have not tested that and they are about USD$2 each. Can't see why they wouldn't. If you want to go cheap, use the NJM4580DD (the second "D" denotes a low noise piece) they are 25 cents each. 5532 would be a great choice as well. HTH

Peace!
 
Great information, thanks again!!!

If you have some pictures or something it would be great. I haven't even had time to use mine, and not to open it up, but I guess it will all be ok.

Robert
 
On the issue of:

A similar transistor arrangement can be seen here;

http://sound.westhost.com/project66.htm

It's widely used in Mackie & Behringer mixers

... who do you think designed that circuit?

Well, I'd like to pitch that I did it... quite a while ago (and I've been to sleep a few times since then!).

My best guess at a date (without any serious forensic memory-searching) is around 1975. At that time, I was the (only) designer for a UK company called Studiomaster, and I put together that circuit for the first few models of low-cost (for the time) mixing desks (12-2, 16-4 etc).

Ok- there is nothing new under the sun. The NPN/PNP transistor pair configuration (which I really liked) was from an article published (maybe in Studio Sound or Electronics World - somewhere like that) at the time - by someone so well-known, I can't remember who... As the web-site says, it behaves like an almost ideal transistor (what it doesn't say is to use genuine Motorola 4403s to get the noise performance - the 1mA operating current is figgered for lowest noise with a 200ohm source impedence, from Motorolas own curves - use other parts and your mileage may vary).

The pseudo 'long-tail-pair' setup, with the pot between the emitters, (and indeed the use of 4403s) was suggested to me by Bill Kelsey. This arrangement (albeit with simple single transistors, and with overall feedback from the op-amp output) has become pretty much a standard over the years - you can see it on many mixer schematics.

The only difference between the schematic posted, and the one I used (apart from 'surround stuff' - decoupling etc...) was that I used a BC184 instead of BC549 (the actual part here is not critical), and my values for R10 and R11 were different (I can't remember what they were though...)

... Oh yes, I also used the 'orrible 741 (I don't think the TL071 was available at the time)....

So... a small world... things don't change too much (I've been out of the audio business since about 1980, and was *astonished* to see that circuit on the web....)

PS. A great forum... Thanks. (This stuff is oddly addictive... I have started loosing sleep, trying to resolve design problems that I originally had over 30 years ago...).

Alan
 
Alan, that is really interesting stuff. What's old is new and vice versa!

SonsofThunder, would love to see actual pics when you get the time. This sounds like a fun little project to do and get some back-up preamps in the process.
 
Charlie, those photos are 1365 pixels wide and blowing-out the board layout. Annoying to read text when I have to scroll left-right-left on every line. (No, there isn't any practical forum-side fix.)

In addition to moaning about it, I've taken copies, down-sized and enhanced them, more suitable for forum use: one - two

Andy (or Admin or Jakob): do you want to edit #12730 and use my copies instead of the 1365-wide ones?

> "N... saw ours and ripped us off".

Oh, bosh. This general plan has been around forever. I agree with Alan: 1975 at least. I think I had seen a related topology, "pseudo 'long-tail-pair' setup, with the pot between the emitters", used as a hi-Z preamp even before that. But it was early/mid 1970s before transistors were reliably good enough to work this way at microphone impedance. The PNP-NPN pair Alan mentions is certainly older than that, well-known in 1965. Using a cascade instead of a single has good and bad points, and is a matter of taste: good preamps have been built both ways. The nice feature of the cascade is that you can use low-Beta transistors, an important point for 1975. So, like most audio, it is all old bones in new soup. Alan's recollection of putting these bones together in this way meshes with my memory of the history of the time; a lot of designers were doing things like this then.

Or if they mean brand-N ripped off the idea of omitting the gain-set resistor.... everybody should be ashamed.

> I don't fully understand why all of the pre's use a discrete diff pair either...even the SSL 9k does this also.

For low noise in low impedance you need LARGE-AREA devices. Chip-makers buy silicon by the square-foot, but sell it per functional-block, so their habit is to use small-area devices to get the maximum number of function-blocks per wafer. So historically there have been no chips that gave low noise in 150 ohms. Transistor makers also buy silicon by the square foot but are happy to slice out and sell you any size you want: 10mA or 10A. And just-plain transistors can be used many ways and are thus sold in vast numbers, and much cheaper than the same area of silicon on a chip. So with few (mostly recent) exceptions, you can get lower voltage noise from a pair of "high current switch transistors" than any chip, and possibly cheaper than the few lo-noise lo-Z chips on the market.

> I am looking for rough gain number here.

Input stage Q1,Q2,U2A has a gain of ((8K2+8K2)/((4K7+4K7)||4K7))+1= 6.2

U2B has a max gain of around 14 (don't overlook R24).

Cross-coupled output stages like U1A,U1B suck. I'm going to pretend it has a gain of 2, but it may be more like 1.2.

Total gain is then 6.2*14*2= 174 or 45dB... is that what the spec claims?

Input stage has gain of about 6.2 and max out about 8V, so maximum input level is about 1.3V. That's reasonable, assuming you pad hyper-hot inputs like big-capsules on loud drums.

I don't know why they bothered with Q1 Q2. The noise level is determined by the second U2B stage, NOT the input stage. The input stage may really come close to "no noise" in 150 ohms. But the second stage sees source impedance of 5K-15K at most settings, so the resistance noise alone is 5.8 to 10 times higher than the self-noise of a 150 ohm mike. The first stage only has gain about 6.2, so in most settings the main noise source is the second stage. (And that assumes that U2B is low-noise: I know the NJM4558 is not as bad as the old 4558s, which in turn were not the worst chips of 1975. But I'm sure U2B adds some noise beyond the resistance noise.)

C100 is too big for the 4K7+100 feedback resistors, and probably pointless at such low gain. It may be a leftover from a proper gain-control design. Short it and see what smokes.

If the output noise is high (I estimate 80dB below 1V, which isn't stellar), and you want to hack, put a proper gain-set network (with big cap) in place of R19, and bypass the whole R27/U2B stage. With that affair you won't be able to fade to zero, but you can't have everything.

C13/R23, C15/R22, C14/R26 are not doing great things for 20KHz response. In fact I'm not sure I like C11, C12, C13 or C15 at all, and C14 sure could be 22pFd.

Back-to-back C10 and C5 does not make sense to me.... could be a mistake? I suspect no cap at all is needed in front of the U1 output stage. None of the bass cap values look small to me, but there are so MANY caps that the total bass-droop may be bad. 2 or 3 DC-blocks per box should be plenty.
 
[quote author="PRR"]Charlie, those photos are 1365 pixels wide and blowing-out the board layout. Annoying to read text when I have to scroll left-right-left on every line. (No, there isn't any practical forum-side fix.)[/quote]
I agree. I apologize for my oversight, I find this annoying as well. If Andy would be so kind as to change those to just links, I would be grateful...again...much and many thanks to Andy for hosting.

[quote author="PRR"]In addition to moaning about it, I've taken copies, down-sized and enhanced them...[/quote]
Thank you PRR, being "a part of the solution..." It's not that I am not capable or unable to process the images. I was simply feeling guilty/in a hurry to post the pics I had promised for those interested and overlooked the size. I hope you will accept my apologies for inconveniencing you.

[quote author="PRR"]> "N... saw ours and ripped us off".
Oh, bosh. This general plan has been around forever...a lot of designers were doing things like this then.
Or if they mean brand-N ripped off the idea of omitting the gain-set resistor...[/quote]
I'm sorry, I must have miscommunicated my meaning. The assumption was that the Nady and SM Pro units were identical. I said I didn't know if the topology was similar or not. The so-called "rip-off" here was just the idea of 8 mic pres in 1RU for $99. That's all, but I do appreciate the history lesson. :green:

[quote author="PRR"]> I don't fully understand why all of the pre's use a discrete diff pair either...

For low noise in low impedance you need LARGE-AREA devices... So with few (mostly recent) exceptions, you can get lower voltage noise from a pair of "high current switch transistors" than any chip, and possibly cheaper than the few lo-noise lo-Z chips on the market.[/quote]
Based on the popular use of this topology vs using just a low-noise OA, I would say not only "possibly" but "definitely" cheaper.

[quote author="PRR"]Input stage Q1,Q2,U2A has a gain of ((8K2+8K2)/((4K7+4K7)||4K7))+1= 6.2[/quote]
Thanks for the Elec Ckts review! I'll dig out my "Sedra and Smith" and do some more study.

[quote author="PRR"]U2B has a max gain of around 14 (don't overlook R24).[/quote]
Ooo! Busted I am! And the top half of the pot (at points less than max) will actually have an additional effect on the gain of U2B as well, eh?

[quote author="PRR"]Cross-coupled output stages like U1A,U1B suck. I'm going to pretend it has a gain of 2, but it may be more like 1.2.[/quote]
Just for clarification, I assume you mean to say, calculating the gain of C-C O/P stages sucks... This ckt is very similar to an App shown in the datasheet for the OP275...p.10. I hope you don't mean to say that the ckt itself sucks. I would like to start a discussion (in another thread) on this arrangement versus the inverter tacked onto a non-invert buffer, ala the way everybody else tends to do it.

[quote author="PRR"]Total gain is then 6.2*14*2= 174 or 45dB... is that what the spec claims?[/quote]
snip..."The PR8 comes to the rescue with 8 channels of Balanced input, with a full range of gain control from -20dB to +40dB"...snip

[quote author="PRR"]Input stage has gain of about 6.2 and max out about 8V, so maximum input level is about 1.3V. That's reasonable, assuming you pad hyper-hot inputs like big-capsules on loud drums.[/quote]
Having used it for this...I agree :grin:

[quote author="PRR"]I don't know why they bothered with Q1 Q2...[/quote]
It's just SOP, I'm sure.

[quote author="PRR"]C100 is too big...Short it and see what smokes.[/quote]
:shock: I prefer not to blow up my gear, no matter how cheap. I try and save the release of smoke for my day job. I get your point though.

[quote author="PRR"]If the output noise is high (I estimate 80dB below 1V, which isn't stellar), and you want to hack, put a proper gain-set network (with big cap) in place of R19, and bypass the whole R27/U2B stage. With that affair you won't be able to fade to zero, but you can't have everything.[/quote]
That was my next step, actually, I have been thinking of some additional mods as well. You can't really fade to "zero" now anyway, so no loss there. I'll measure the noise as is before I mod, though, and see. :thumb: btw, You have already identified me as a "Solder Poker" so I'm not sure I can accept this new title of "hack" :razz:

[quote author="PRR"]C13/R23, C15/R22, C14/R26 are not doing great things for 20KHz response. In fact I'm not sure I like C11, C12, C13 or C15 at all, and C14 sure could be 22pFd.[/quote]
I already proved the removal of C13, 14, 15 gives 90kHz bandwidth by measurement...my graph needs revision there.

[quote author="PRR"]Back-to-back C10 and C5 does not make sense to me.... [/quote]
Its not there on the original schematic, so I think there was a layout error on somebody's part.

Thank you for the rundown PRR.
Stay tuned for more (smaller pics though, I promise!)
Charlie
 

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