yet another green question

GroupDIY Audio Forum

Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Blade

It should be fine for 2 channels. If the regulators get too hot, you could put a heat sink on them.

The way the PCB is designed, it is laid out for a single heatsink or box side to attach to the regulators.

Peter
 
> Do you think it's possible to use this PSU from JLMAudio (JLM AC/DC PCB), and power 2 channels

It would probably power several dozen typical mike channels.

Somewhere around the first dozen you would need to add heatsinking. Up around 50 typical channels the heatsinking will look like a 20W hi-fi amp's sink.

If he still uses those bare-metal regulators, use separate heatsinks or use insulators between metal-tab and heatsink.
 
From many years repairing things. Always use heatsinks on 3 term regs even if 20ma. They might not seem hot but do it anyway. I have seen a lot of failed 3 terms without heatsinks. Might last 1 to 3 years but they seem to fail.

He is a test for some of you that actually build things. Touch and/or measure temp of the 3 term without a heatsink. Touch and/or measure one with a heatsink that has been on for some time it can often be hotter. Try at 10ma to 100ma.

Some of you who read and test might understand why.
 
so all caps should be 25 votls rated???????
i'm having hard time to figure it out.!!

help me please.
 
thank you peter, i already stuff my psu missing only the regulators due to a bad drilled pcb.

:mad:

Well, mostly. I like to have the caps in the PSU at 35v, the decoupling caps (47uF) on the boards at 25v, the coupling caps in the audio chain 16v & the phantom blocking caps MUST be 63v

Following the mendelt BOM wich caps are the decoupling, coupling and phantom blocking???

i know the 47uf/63 volt and then after????
 

Latest posts

Back
Top