10468 Relay PCB

Here's something for fellow sadists!

Phantom + 4 Relay Board provides PAD, Flip, DI, xfmr primary series/parallel toggle. This was done in the wee hours and may have some things wrong. The zip has overlay and copper layouts for your er... enjoyment.


Final Pin Spacing update (copper, silk, overview)


http://www.guavatone.com/free/10468.zip


You can use this for Phantom and separate relay voltage

Or this for all 48V relays

Just a quickie - I guess the 10468 needs to be mounted upside down on the PCB
Is it stable enough or does it need support?

Hi, it's really fine and practical for Neve projects :thumb:
do you have a schematic with components values

The red circles in the corner are for mounting the 10468. I used the footprint from the last carnhill buy.

I haven't tried it yet but I don't think it should be stable if the PCB is mounted firmly. The xfmr I have isn't all that heavy.

C5 is the unlabeled cap above the RL4


Parts list

Relay PCB

Relays
Omron
12V G5V-2-DC12
24V G5V-2-DC24


Headers are .1" spaced

Resistors

R1, R2 = 6.8K 1% or less

R3, R5 =470R 1% or less

R4=120

R 9= 470R 1W

C2, C3, C4, C5=100nF 100V
diodes=1N4148 or 400X

C1= 220uF 63V

The layout for the 10468 is off

On a closer look( and well rested) the 2 rows are offset by a mm or 1.5.

Does any one have the exact layout numbers?

Mine are offset by 2mm.
(with 4mm spacing between pins.) And I think I purchased from the same group buy. JC's.

Thanks for doing this! I'll give it a swing.

Kato

hey , i like your pcb moves.

looking good :thumb:

g.

Hi!
There's another way to use the pad, change resistors to 2 x 6k8 and a 1k and you will have a -30dB pad for line inputs. Input impedance ~14k, 1k over the primary is small enough to keep the low end flat.

I updated the files. Please comment/critique, I was at a loss for the best way to implement pin 6 chassis ground connection. So I left options -bolt connection to chassis or cable connection. -you may want to put the plane on the top copper. I left some options for 0V DC too. I never want to commit to one grounding scheme just in case some noise creeps in.


Thanks Kato for confirming that. I don't think their tolerances are very stringent.

Thanks for the kind words Greg.

[quote author="guavatone"]
Thanks Kato for confirming that. I don't think their tolerances are very stringent.
[/quote]

I measured with calipers before posting but I can see the result is still off slightly.

Spacing from one pin to the next still seems correct but over the course of all 5 pins, the spacing is about 1mm too far. (Maybe the actual spacing is 3.75mm between pins?)

Fellow sadists: double check before you etch! And sorry if I contributed to someone wasting a pcb blank.

Other scenarios: my final printout might be scaled wrong. I often have problems when importing bitmaps and scaling them down. Also, I'm actually using a VTB2168. Might be practically different from a 10468 although they're in the same form factor.

Also, dig this: thread about reversed phase on the 2168.

I'm just going to nudge the pads in photoshop a wee bit and printout again. (And figure out what to do with the reversed polarity.)

Kato

[quote author="kato"]

I measured with calipers before posting but I can see the result is still off slightly.

Spacing from one pin to the next still seems correct but over the course of all 5 pins, the spacing is about 1mm too far. (Maybe the actual spacing is 3.75mm between pins?)[/quote]

Drop the metric assumption--it's .15" spacing--just measured mine. I'm sure the offset between rows is half that (symmetrical zig-zag).

A P

Kato I'm using the 2168 too. I have an old orig. too but it will be some time before I get it out of the old ckt.

Yeah, 0.6" comes closer to the end pins: 2-6, 11-7. I'll update by Sunday.


Was there a Verdict on the Polarity? I could make an alternate with polarity correction built in.

[quote author="AnalogPackrat"][quote author="kato"](Maybe the actual spacing is 3.75mm between pins?)[/quote]

Drop the metric assumption--it's .15" spacing--just measured mine. I'm sure the offset between rows is half that (symmetrical zig-zag).
[/quote]

Oh. Duh. Thanks for clicking my brain back into position.
.15 inches = 3.81 millimeters
Makes perfect sense now.

Guava, I never heard a verdict about the polarity issue. But it seems to be confirmed with multiple reports. I've not seen a pinout diagram for these. Thanks in advance for the corrected polarity! This makes things a lot easier (and more fun.) Kato

On the other post it looked like JC was waiting for CJ's confirmation. I have an original so I will need 2 different boards myself if the phase is reversed.

Well, it's nice when things fit together. I just lined up the .15" holes which are fine now. The tolerance on the mount screws are a little funky, or is it my printer, or eyes at 2 AM....

very nice board, Charlie.

Soon will you be a Jedi of PCB design.

JL

Thank you Master BigUgly. Buy you know all too well that I can't seriously take credit for this one. :green:

Pin spacing updated on first post. Please print to size and check spacing.

-I don't think there's a need for reverse poarity. Just reverse the input. If there is a need to have a different hookup on XFMR please let me know.

Enjoy! :thumb:

I JUST UPDATED THE ZIP FILE

included is a jpeg that I edited to make some of the jagged edges smoother. I will test over the bext couple of weeks to see if it works out.

I don't think the primary switch is right here. I think 2 goes to 3 and 4 goes to 5 for parallel opperation. I hope I am the first to make a PCB of this.

Can someone confirm this mistake by comparing to this:

http://jlmaudio.com/JLM1272hotrodmod.pdf
http://www.danalexanderaudio.com/neveinfo/DSCF1998T.JPG
Series setup should be fine. I just need to get wheels for my hotrod spinning.