Yamaha HS80 Mod

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So I've replaced all electrolytic caps with pana's and have a bunch of opa2134's to go in. I'm just wondering, I found a site where a guy replaced the transformer with a toroidal and he mentions it made a difference to the sound. I'm wondering what would this achieve?
 
Ok, just about to go ahead and swap out to the OPA2134's but just wanted to confirm with someone with the know-how, should I just replace *all* 4558's with the OPA2134's?
 
It depends on the circuit what works best in each instance. The circuit was designed with the 4558 in mind, the 2134 has very different specs and may or may not work as well. Again, from my own experience I would advice against changing active components (even more so with surface mount) at random in an active speaker without understanding the theory behind the electronics.
Replacing polyester caps in the EQ circuits with polystyrene (if they fit physically) is a safe improvement however, better than WIMA polyproylene even IMO.
 
So you'd say it's not worth doing then? I keep reading that the 4558's are very dated and any BB opamp would surpass them in terms of sound quality and noise.
 
druu said:
So you'd say it's not worth doing then? I keep reading that the 4558's are very dated and any BB opamp would surpass them in terms of sound quality and noise.

I'm not saying it's not worth it, I'm saying you need to know what you're actually doing there. Think about it like just putting a Ferrari motor in your Fiat (assuming the dimensions and connectors were the same) and expecting it to work. I don't think just trying and measuring generally isn't fine, but in this case you've got it connected to the amp and the speaker, and it's hard to measure there, too.
 
Hi - This is a request for 'livingsounds' if he is still on Group DIY

I'm looking for the wiring diagrams/schematics for the Adam A7 active studio monitors and an internet search turned up this thread where you mentioned you have modded Adam A7's in the past so I'd thought I'd try and get in touch to see if you casn point me in the right direction to find them or just email me a copy, as I'm not having much luck with internet searches.

I'll also post a new topic for this one just in case no-one is monitoing this thread anymore

thanks

SF
 
hi anyone interested in modding hs80m, wanted to give my experiences / thoughts

after doing the mod, i highly recommend. it makes the midrange waaay less harsh. for me this has allowed to mix more detail in the sensitive 3/4k etc range. previously, when i had mixed on hs80m, things often sounded dull because i overcompensated for the shrill sound of these frequencies. now, it's much easier to mix them accurately.

prior to mod, i found the monitors to be too clinical, very quick to bark and snarl. i think the circuit mod is enough to make these monitors sound much sweeter. maybe on par with something in the $2000+ range, but costs nowhere as much - like maybe $100ish in parts.

as others have said, the bass is also able to breathe a bit more due to disabling the limiter circuit. bearing in mind that you should be careful with the volume after removing the lim, i've cranked it a few times (obviously never close to full volume) and it's still more than loud enough. i still don't think they're super accurate in the bass - i would much prefer a sub tbh. there is def is an improvement in the bass, but the main improvement is in the midrange. fundamentally, mixing is quicker and easier.

i did the following:
- replace 4558 with BB2134
- replace electrolytic through-hole caps with low-ESR equivalents
- remove limiter circuit (snipping the wire)

in the first stage, i only removed the limiter circuit. there was noticeable difference. this step is relatively easy for anyone curious but not wishing to commit to arduous desoldering/soldering overhaul. i then used the monitors for a few months to see if there was any point continuing.

given the improvement i noticed, i then in the second stage replaced caps and opamps. in my opinion this produced a wonderful improvement, much more so than just removing limiter. it is tricky to desolder the SMD 4558s - unless you have a rework station or skills, it might be too hard. i think i used lelon caps from memory. some might have been rubicon/nichicon/panasonic fm. i'm sure any ESR / audio-grade cap would work well. it wasn't super difficult to unscrew everything.

i've seen some ppl mention replacing the power transformer or putting in WIMAs or other things like replacing the tweeters. maybe this would yield further improvements - not sure. i think the results are more than satisfactory with the minimal mod that i've followed. it's not super expensive, and i have no interest in further modifying them.

finally, i doubt it's worth replacing caps/opamps WITHOUT removing the limiter. not sure as i haven't tried it.

keen to hear others' experiences / any tips etc - cheers
 

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