All things G1176 - the new "repost" thread.

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Echo North said:
casrec said:
Chrome Heart said:
OK I have the Avel Lindberg torroid from HB and the sticker on the side says Blue/Grey to 115v, but the data sheet at Avel says Blue/Violet for 115v. Can someone clear this? Am I missing something?

I had this same problem with this torroidal. It has to be a misprint. Wire in parallel as per the data sheet. Blue/violet and grey/brown. If you wire the other way around it will get very hot and I am sure will pop if left to long which I did not wait to see. They are great heavy duty transformers, but they should really look into this misprint on the unit itself.

Brandon 

My new batch from Avril has the correct sticker on the side (same as Data).

Previous purchasers should check their PT's before wiring if they have an Avril (from me or Avril).

Thanks for the catch guys!

Mike

Avril... funny.
 
Echo North said:
Chrome Heart said:
Echo North said:
Ah Crap.

Avel....

Too tired...

I think your too close to the border. :)

I'm actually Canadian!

Grew up one town over from Avril...a good decade earlier.  ;)

Its a proximity infatuation... classic case. With her, I have the same problem... and Im in Virginia. Maybe its because I was born in Michigan. At any rate; understood.
 
Chrome Heart said:
Echo North said:
Chrome Heart said:
Echo North said:
Ah Crap.

Avel....

Too tired...

I think your too close to the border. :)

I'm actually Canadian!

Grew up one town over from Avril...a good decade earlier.  ;)

Its a proximity infatuation... classic case. With her, I have the same problem... and Im in Virginia. Maybe its because I was born in Michigan. At any rate; understood.

:D
 
gswan said:
Mako has a PSU, so do I and others. Here are some links:

http://www.geocities.com/m_natsume/psu.html
http://www.axtsystems.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&id=35&Itemid=64
http://www.jlmaudio.com/JLM%20Power%20Supply.htm

A single 25-0-25 30VA transformer is ideal to power two 1176 modules, including lamps and relays.

Thanks! I found the Mnats schematics and will build that one.
 
ok all ratio board resistors check out
on Pad 7 the wire goes to the release pot high side with the release pot fully CW I have a voltage reading of
-1.993v and with the pot fully CCW i have -1.114v at pad 7

the voltage on pad 18 is -2.011 and the release and attack pot have no effect on the voltage it remains constant
as for the release pot it measures a 5.56 meg its an AB 687043-1 type J
CR3 and CR4 are the correct way around and they tested good
All the components in the GR control amp are good
I switched out all the BC107s and still same thing



gswan said:
a2d said:
R48 is 3.9m
R82 is 9.9k
R81 is 2.06k
R83 is 3.88k

ass for pad 7 the stereo interconnect, with the release pot full CW i have -1.83V and when I turn the pot fully CCW I have -7.23 V

Point (7) is the FET gate voltage. If you have any stereo interconnect devices attached to it, remove them for this test.

1. Is your release pot 5Meg (measure it as well as check the markings)?
2. How does the attack pot position affect this?
3. Are your diodes (FDH333) in the correct way around?
4. Are your resistor values correct on the ratio switch (A pole)?
5. What happens at point (18) when you adjust the release pot?
 
Hi all.

Finally finished my stereo 2-1176. This is two compressors 1176LN.
My right channel working good and have problem with left channel.
Calibration is OK.
In left channel , When I move CCW Release my meter in position GR  move down. Diode FD333 on katode is +1,5V when release move CW on katode is -1,5V.

this is difference beetwen left and right channel. 
In right channel on katode (diode FD333) is -1,5V  :    -1,3V

This is my problem :

http://www.sendspace.pl/file/e1f1e428f037c53d1e07881

Klik ( POBIERZ )= DOWNLOAD

Best regards.
sosnowski



???????????????
 
LOL, you mean it's faulty, and you don't know how to fix it!
You need to do more probing and measurements between the good one and bad one and see what differences you can find. This will give you a clue as to where you have gone wrong.
 
lol, yes its faulty,and If I knew how to fix it I wouldn't be here asking if people could help me
thats the thing, I only have one ,,,, so how can I  A/B them,,,, hence why this forum is here, no????
I checked all my voltages on the schematic, and all are good +/- .5v
confirmed that my wiring is good, the only thing is that that when I move the wire to the low side of the pot the meter reacts ok, ( with no audio )
and No I'm not an electronics wizz by any means, ( i've been tring to fix this for 3 weeks),
I can only probe so much( getting the same readings as the schematic,)

My head is going to explode

I am hoping that the great guys here can help me out, if not the it goes in the G file,
maybe someone can post a detailed pic???

Pine has the same problem with one of his, hopefully he could A/B and let me know what he finds
 
A detailed pic of what. If I can be any help, Ill take one. If it was mine and I was at your point, Id take out the Hakko and start over, measuring each component as it went in.
 
It all started with Q1 and Q10 in the right/ wrong way, I didn't know that they are not the same as the screaning
I've had every component in the GR meter driver amp and GR control amp out and tested and reinstalled,
I even replaced all the BC107's I going to switch out Q6,Q7,Q8,Q9 and see what happens
 

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