Wonder whats next?? SSL 9K- 500 Series Preamp.

[mylesgm]

So is there a kit for this pre?

M

 

[3nity]

Alright.
Gimme some more days and i'll have a BOMfor the 9K5...
Parts are the sameas if you would use for a normal 9K board..
This is a true 9K preamp but i used the THAT1646 as a balancer....doest mean you can use any other...

 

[3nity]

Alirght guys i just remember that part number on the pcb...reflects the parts number on the schematics...
so if you follow the ssltech schem you have a winner....

 

[RedNoise]

Yeah , thanks 3!

 

[Mike D]

Right. I did just that, however there are some resistor and capacitor values that are not covered. I think I worked out the values for C49 and C50 to be 100n, correct? And R59...R61 are a normal -20dB pad.

But so far I couldn't work out what R1 and R62...R65 should be. Can you please give me a hint?
That would be great!

And thank you for doing that layout!

Mike

 

[3nity]

yes C46-C50 its a psu coupling for the 1646...
Yes resistor for pads are normal 20dB pads but can use any pad value you need.

R1 its what??? lol i have to get my copy of Eagle man..cant remember everything..

R65..its a R led (6k8).
C1 its a 220/63V
R64 its a 470R resistor.
Then R63/62 its a 6k8 resistor.

Thanks Mike i know i havent been there for support but i lost all on my pc crash..

Thanks

 

[3nity]

Alright....
R1 its supposed to be R84.
Thanks

 

[Mike D]

Thanks a lot Jorge. Do you by any chance know the value of R65? That would be the last one missing and it should be all the support we need to build this thing  ;D

Mike

 

[3nity]

look above!!

 

[rascalseven]

Metalwork?  Or just pcb?

JC

 

[3nity]

Only PCB's.

 

[Carlos Lima]

Hi guys,

I received Gustav boards (very hi quality, by the way) and after I started stuffing them, I found some problems with this PCB:

1 - The way the input is wired now, at least in my API 500V rack and on the GDIY 51X racks (don't know on older racks or launchboxes), there will be no signal routed to the circuit. The PCB is wired pin 7 for INPUT- and pin 9 for INPUT+. Those pins are either not connected (on 51X) or for -2 dB input level (on 500V); this one is also not connected to the XLR input socket. A pair of jumps between pins 7 & 8 and 9 & 10 will solve the problem. This is the same solution found on the 512C from API (I checked on mines...).

2 - The 48V switch is a real danger right now. The way it is wired, it will put the D201 diode DIRECTLY connected to GROUND (or 0V) when the switch is in the OFF position. The only way to solve this is to cut the PCB trail that is going to GND.

3 - I'm no sure of this one, but depending on the circuit you follow, C1 in on the wrong side of R64 (I'm looking on the circuit Jensen made available in their site).

3 - The R65 has no function. it is wired between both extremes at the other side of the 48V switch, and this way it will do nothing really. I think this resistor was originally intended for the 48V LED indicator. Rewiring the front side (the side near the front panel) of R65 to a LED and the other side of the LED to GROUND will work.

Please excuse me if I understood something in the wrong way. If a Rev 2.0 is going to exist, I'd like to suggest to include the extra pins for the 51X rack and the possibility to use the 24V PSU instead of the regular 16V from API (possibly thru some jumps).

Again, thanks for this great and usefull project and best regards,

Carlos Lima

 

[3nity]

Well thanks for sharing these...
1-You're right.....jumper 7-8 and 9-10!!! Thanks for Pointing thisout...
2- The diode you named 202 is D2...D1 its the above diode and SHOULDBE REPLACED BY A JUMPER.....and yes cut that trace...my bad :-[
3- C1 should be between R64 and R62-63 but it will work this way too!
4- R65 its misplaced.....you're right once again...

Thanks Carlos i really apreciate your input....
This project needed more attention from me and Gustav than we gave !!!

As you pointed too even the pros at API make mistakes...

 

[Carlos Lima]

Hi 3nity,

D201... I'm REALLY needing eyeglasses...

So from botton to top, D1 is at +48V rail, D2 is at -16V and D3 is at +16V, right? Wich one is to be replaced by a jumper? I did't got that...

Best,

Carlos Lima

(and we ALL make mistakes...)

 

[3nity]

all 3 of them....

 

[Carlos Lima]

Understood. ;D

Carlos Lima

 

[RedNoise]

Thanks Carlos for your input 'bout 9K5 !

EDIT : Carlos , could you post some pics please?

 

[3nity]

PLEASE GUYS LOOK AT THIS THREAD...http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=36358.0

 

[mpc3000limited]

so are these PCB's fixable?

 

[3nity]

Yes...right now I'm working on that ....
The thing is to cut 4 traces...and put 3 jumpers....and place a cap as opposite to the silkscreen!
Should be available tomorrow...
Thanks